The only combination that has given me a slight wobble is all of the following combined together:
4WD Revel Kit +
Vanguard Deck +
105 Cloud Wheels +
3/4 inch tall Princess Auto Vibration pads as risers.
Something about the very flexible Vanguard Deck and the tall soft risers and the narrow Cloud wheels contact patch produces a noticible but manegable wobble at top speed. Note that I always upgrade to quality double barrel bushings before I ride. In this case, Venom 95A.
I found a few different ways to tune out the wobble.
If I swapped to the Tarab Deck, the Wobble disappears.
If I stuck with the Vanguard and eliminate the 3/4 inch risers, the wobble also goes away.
If I use the Vanguard Deck and the tall risers and switch to TB 110ās the wobble also goes away.
The only other wobble that I encountered was on a friendās Revel Kit. He had loose rear truck bolts and some deformed out of round TB 100 Wheels.
If you come up with a combination that wobbles, I suggest a few of the following measures:
Make sure the bushings are upgraded to Venoms or Riptides
Verify the tightness of the truck bolts and make sure there are no out of round issues with the wheels. Even some new wheels can be deformed if the mold was worn out.
Try using the pairs of truck bolt holes that are more widely spaced. Or use six bolts instead of four.
Try adding metal plates above the deck and underneath the heads of the truck bolts. The metal plate will allow you to crank down harder on the truck bolts without pulling the screw heads through the deck.
Hello, I hope all of you guys are having a great start to the new year! I want to get a short cruiser deck for my kit. Iām looking at the Carver CI Flyer (Carver x Channel Islands). The deck is 30.75" long with a wheelbase of 16 3/4". Is that wheelbase long enough to take the battery in and out?
Too short for 4WD.
Probably long enough for 2WD slide out. But it depends on how you have measured your wheel base.
measuring from inner bolt hole to inner bolt hole, I think 15.5 inches would give you the minimum slide out clearance.
Hey all- Itās been a while since I was around. Has anyone made all terrain wheels or adapters for all terrain wheels that will work with Abec or Kegel cores so that I can turn my Revel 4WD into an absolute monster? Also, if anyone has any helpful weatherproofing/ waterproofing tips for the Revel kit (on top of @pkasanda swim cap method) Iād love to know. Hope everyone is doing well!
Jason says he gets 16 km range with a 2WD revel kit and his 105 Rubber wheels. I assume he was riding gently to maximize range. Heās not a heavy rider.
Its the wheel diameter that affects range. I donāt think the tire material has much effect. Whether you switch to 110 TB or 105 Cloud wheels, the larger tire diameter hits the battery hard because ever moment of accelleration has an amplified impact on voltage sag. A 105 mm tire is 17% larger than a 90mm tire. So every moment to accelerate or maintain speed is equivalent to accelerating 17% harder or traveling up a 17% grade.
There are only two ways to counteract that.
a) You can limit your acceleration with a gentle thumb or by riding in a lower speed mode
b) Alternatively, you can add tonnes of battery capacity
A very large battery does not sag as much on acceleration. Larger wheels have a relativley small impact on range when the battery is massive.
4WD doubles your battery capacity so it helps alot. However, parallellng in any Mega battery would be the most effective range booster for large wheels. Its not just the amp hours that boosts your range, its the resilience to moments of voltage sag under acceleration.
Just before the snow and salt hit, I was able to do a few distance runs on Cloudwheels with 4WD. The range seemed significanlty better than 110 TB. Traveling top speed and flat out acceleration from every stop, my range was 15 km. That compares to about 8 km on TB110.
I know both figures are pretty low but in both cases the weather was cold and the rider gear and spare batteries added up to about 225 pounds and like I said it was top speed and full acceleration.
If I was riding to maximize range on the cloud wheels/4WD the range would more than double ā probably 36 km. And If I was a lighter rider the range would probably well over 40 km.
Material almost certainly affects range due to rolling resistance. Softer materials deform and absorb some of the forward motion, which slows you down, and thus the board needs to supply more energy to keep your speed constant. Rubber wheels have historically been far less efficient and wear far more quickly compared to regular urethane wheels, as much as 50% sometimes.
Also wheel diameter plays less of a role than you think. A larger wheel does indeed take more energy to get up to speed, but also takes less energy to maintain speed because of the increased moment of inertia from the heavier wheel, so it usually evens out. Think heavy flywheels or fidget spinners even. The mass on the outside lets it keep spinning for a very long time, and removing the mass causes it to slow down much more quickly.
You are missing something. Iām talking about the impact that heavier accelleration loads have on the battery. You are talking about conservation of momentum. If you do jack rabbit starts in a gas powered vehicle, you get less fuel economy. The effect on a battery powered vehicle is much greater because heavy loads donāt just draw electrons from the battery fasterā¦There is also a very deep voltage sag effect.
I can give you many examples of this. My nissan leaf has about 120 km of winter range on city streets. At highway speeds it drops to just over 40 kilometers. Rapid discharge from a lithium battery has a disproportionate impact on range.
As an electric skateboarder, you should see the same thing. Gentle acceleration compared to hard accelleration can make a 50% difference in range. Moderate speed vs top speed can also make a difference of 50% or more.
Putting larger diameter wheels on a direct drive skateboard produces acceleration loads that are x% higher where x = (diameter_A - diameter_B)/diameter_A. Those increased acceleration loads cause deep cycles of voltage sag that can greatly reduce range. The bigger the wheel and the harder you accelerate, the more rapidly the battery consumes its watt-hours.
I have three different sets of 74A TB wheels. 90mm, 100mm, 110mm. The diameter difference is 17%. (90mm vs 100 mm) and 34% (90mm vs 110mm). 100mm wheels reduce my range by about 20%. 110mm wheels reduce my range by at least 50%. Same PU compound. The only difference is wheel diameter.
Your thoughts on heavier wheels vs lighter wheels are about 50% correct. The additional energy to accelerate the additional rotational mass is conserved by the flywheel effect ā but only if you never brake. The moment you brake you lose most of the stored energy. Regenerative braking is not 100% efficient especially with hard acceleration and hard braking.
For similar reasons, heavier riders get much lower range than lighter riders. Yes the enegy to accelerate the heavier rider is stored as momentum. However, in practce, the heavier rider runs out of battery much earlier.
There is a trade off between soft comfortable wheels and durability. Original Revel kit wheels seem to last forever and still look brand new. I have 4 yrsr old revel kit/L3-x wheels with about 2000 km on them. They still look fresh out of the box. TB 74A wheels last a season. But there is a significant comfort difference.