Revel at the "brand" new competitor in the direct drive Esk8 race!

Vendor Corner (SERIOUS)
2129

@ShutterShock you know much more about batteries than me. Even still I’m suggesting not to panic if your revel kit batteries are full at the start of the storage season. The revel kit is designed to under charge battereis to leave room for full charge braking. The L3-x battereis were the same. So full is never really full on a landwheel or revel kit. At about 30 days off the charger, the voltage will drop even more.

My battery longevity has been phenomenal. I have mint three year old Revel kit battereis and mint five and six year old batteries in my boosted boards, L3-x and One wheels. They have always been stored starting wiht a full charge at the begining of the storage season.

So I might not be doing it the recomended way but its worked out pretty well for me.

I don’t have any Nicad

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2130

Yeah I mean for a few months they might be okay, but generally for long storage the lower charge level is recommended

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2131

You don’t want to extend the wires. Its not just the motor wires, its also the sensor wires. 18 wires in total. With the brackets that I sketched for you you won’t need an extension.

2132

Agreed.

I’ve had some L3-x in the original packaging from China for two years. When I finally opened the box, they were mint. So long term storage seems to work out for what ever charge level Jason ships them at.

But five months of storage starting at a full charge has not been a problem either. Which I think you also agree with if I read correctly.

2133

Likely 3.6v/cell or about 60%

2134

Zero vibration between the ski and truck. No need for rubber.

I use a 3/4 inch vibration pad that is wider than the truck. Four inches to be exact.

https://www.princessauto.com/en/4-in-square-anti-vibration-pads-with-ribbing/product/PA0008702953

The extra material supports the trucks and prevents the tall riser from deforming/twisting. This not only increases the stabilty of the ride, it helps to prevent the stainless steel bolts from twisting around. If you tried to have a 3/4 inch tall rubber pad that is only the dimensions of a regular riser then there is not enough support for the long bolts.

The metal plate should also be about 4 inches wide. Four inches is about the width of the tip of a vanguard deck.

2135

Correct. If the trucks are under the deck and the drive plate is top mounted, then there is no need for the d-shaped spacer since it is facing the sky.

If the battery is flipped to the sky and cantilevered and mounted under the deck, then you problably want to use some rubber gasket to insulate the deck from the sharp edges of the drive plate. That should probably include filling the D-cavity

2136

How many cells are in a 216wh Revel kit battery?

2137

20 samsung 18650 cells

2138

So 6WD will accelerate faster than 4WD but the top speed won’t be much different unless you switch to larger wheels. You can also maximize your speed by using large wheels and setting the remote to the smallest wheel diameter. You remote speedometer won’t be accurate but you will bypass the speed governor.

With 6WD, 110 mm wheels should give you about 50 kph depending on your weight, road quality and grade.

But its going to be a heavy machine.

I’m planning on getting a few sets of the viper wind wheels to cut down on the weight and centrifigal mass. The wheels look pretty effective according to some youtube reviews. But they are not cheap. I tried to negotiate with them for a better price for multiple sets but they did not budge.

I’m going to try again in the new year.

If you think you might want a set or two, we could negotiate together.

2139

I assume that’s 10S/2P

So at 3.6 volts times 10 series cells that 36 volts.

The revel kit charges up to just under 42 volts and powers down somewhere between 38 and 39 volts.

So 36 volts as a storage charge seems way too low.

2140

There is no way that the revel kit powers down between 38 and 39 volts. It should be powering down between 3.4 and 3.2v/cell, which would be between 34 and 32 volts.

2141

Its not what I recall. But I never get to measure the actual shut down voltage. I’m always measuring the recovered resting voltage minutes or hours after a shut down. Typically in the range of 37.5 to 39 volts.

If I tried to power up the voltage might drop well below that but i’ve never measured voltage during start up.

I can’t reproduce any of this right now due to the weather. But to the best of my recollection i’ve never seen the resting voltage on a revel kit battery as low as 36 volts.

2142

That doesn’t make any sense to me but we can agree to disagree for now

2143

I’m not saying i’m right and you are wrong. I’m just describing what I remember. My memory is not always accutate.

2144

105 mm Cloud Wheels vs Torque Boards 100 mm 74A

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2145

Thank you for clarifying on the truck inversion and the 18 wires (not just motor wires), I see where my confusion was in regards to the order of syncing and flipping kits. I think if I had the Revel kits on hand to analyze visually/open up, some of that would have been more obvious. I’m putting the cart before the horse in that sense.

I am going to swing by a metal shop on Tuesday with some questions and sketches. Agreed with the design you are describing. I was also thinking that rubber at those particular areas will help with force distribution.

I was watching a review on the Beast board and wind wheels last week https://youtu.be/JNpYSy6NW9E I am a believer in honeycomb and similar designs… I’m writing this while sitting on a buckling column gel seat pad, and I sleep on a buckling column gel mattress topper. The honeycomb is obviously different, but same principle of pressure distribution. It might even follow a similar concept of collapse threshold (firm to its threshold, and then soft after collapsing)…

Would be nice if the Wind Wheel came in a different color besides white.

For context on my previous questions - I purchased a used, but almost new condition Revel kit two weeks ago that includes 100 mm Hyperdrive wheels… I haven’t received it yet because shipping is extremely slow for the obvious COVID/Christmas reasons.
Once that comes in, then I’ll be able to open the drive up, look at wires, D-shaped recess, and figure out the next step… whether that is 4WD with 6 wheels and a ski setup, 6WD, or something else.

As I said, I’m putting the cart before the horse a bit. There is nothing else to do but wait on the kit and research the next steps.

On another note, yesterday I received what one reviewer called a “knock off tesseract” from Skateshred. https://www.skateshred.com/wholesale-blank-longboard-decks/blank-free-ride-and-downhill-longboard-decks/downhill-kicktail-dark-walnut-deck.html
Obviously this will not work for more than 4 wheels without an extension, but fine for testing 2WD.

Thanks again for your help and clarifications.

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2146

Hey Guys, I was watching a video by Ronnie Sarmiento and he opened a Revel Kit with a green remote vs. red and mentioned something about this being the latest drive from Revel. Wondering if you guys are aware of any changes, or improvements with this new drive or new remote.

2147

revel
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2148

So I’ve been really looking into speed wobbles, trucks, bushings, stability, etc., and notice most people talk about the benefits of double king pin trucks for carving but have terrible high speed stability while rkp trucks, like on the revel, have high speed stability but lack carve.

So I started to research if there is a way to get both nice carve and high speed stability.
I came across this thread https://electric-skateboard.builders/t/speed-wobble-is-real/389/56

This guy skaterdude10 pointed out some interesting ideas.

1 - It helps if you put all your weight to your front leg.
2 - have the rear truck tighter and with harder bushings then your front truck
3 - to bend your knees and stay low & loose as you can.
4 - you can de-wedge your rear truck to help with stability.

So I started to think about boards people really like riding that have a good mix of carve and stability at higher speeds and I kept coming back to the boosted and exway flex style boards where the battery is in the front and the esc is in the rear.

I think if the goal is to have your weight transferred to the front of the board for stability, it must help to already have weight there to begin with, like your battery.

So what I did was I put really really soft bushings in the trucks with the motors and really stiff bushings in the normal trucks. Then I went for a ride today with the revel kit in front wheel drive. The roads where clear and dry today and it was a quick 15 min ride. I soon noticed I had no speed wobbles at all going full speed in Front wheel drive. So I decided to loosen the trucks, then I rode, then loosened them again, then again, until they were so loose I could do full u-turns on the road! It was like I was on double king pin trucks to a degree. The craziest thing was I still had no speed wobbles full throttle in speed mode 4! I could’t believe what was happening! So I guess having the weight of the revel kit at the front of the board rather than the rear greatly reduced speed wobbles for me allowing me to loosen my trucks a lot more.

So in conclusion using the revel kit in Front Wheel Drive with soft bushings in the front and stiff in the back and making the trucks fairly loose, (still keeping rear slightly tighter then front), while using proper riding posture, I am able to carve like crazy, do full u-turns, and still maintain high speed stability!

I don’t own a go pro or anything but I can try and make some videos showing this hopefully when the snow goes away.