Ok. Maybe try 9 inch tires then.
Cushion is your friend.
My Paragon will happen eventuallyā¦ For the serious boards, Iām starting to think you might be right, though.
Honestly, the battery build has me a bit hesitant ā itās going to be bigā¦ and segmented.
This is incorrect, it was controlled in parallel with the remote signal, so it
More as you gave more throttle.There was nothing magic there. It was a servo controlled by the remote signal and just compressed bushings.It was stupid because you can be going full speed with only 10% throttle on any decently powered board, so the whole premise that it was ābased on speedā was a crock of shit.
Redacted, i was mistaken
thereās this āenable servo outā which i remember digging into once.
I thought it defaulted to forwarding some scaled version of the duty_cycle of the motor out.
but in my attempt to find that in the code right now. (Iām not super coder) I got the impression it simply initializes the usual servo (PWM/PPM) input pins as a servo outputs defaulting to a a neutral servo position output which can then be changed by lisp-bm commands.
lispbm commands include
- get-rpm (erpm)
- get-duty
- get-remote-state
- get-speed
so it could have been several things which were not the remote input, or it could have been remote input. (which I agrfee would have been extra sucky)
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I pulled one apart to replace the battery. Iām certain it was parallel to the remote, iāll have to go through my photos and see if i have any evidence
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There is a Facebook group for kaly xlr owners and I found pictures with wires plugged into the servo port, and videos of it tightening in steps at I think it was 15, 25, 35 mph or so. There was also a great guide on how to flash the kaly firmware so that the servo outputs can work but that is going to be too difficult for me.
I was looking into those and apparently they help but there is very little difference between max and min adjustment position.
Man you donāt stop being cool. You probably know this already but they do have 3 pin ports labelled servo. Do you know if it would be difficult to get a pwm output from writing code or get duty cycle to an arduino?
Truck choice / stiffness reasoning
I know I probably should have gotten dualities in the first place but I got these 3dservisas finality second hand, and even though I donāt have too bad speed wobbles anymore, (unpopular taste inbound) I like it being tighter so that at speed a shiver or bump doesnāt try start a 1G turn.
Plus I could have the 62A bushings in the inner position at no preload for low speed which will be great.
moving here
Looks so fresh and clean! How was the ride?
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Unfortunately short, not much daylight after work now 
. Need to get myself some night gear.
She fresh because it hasnāt seen a ride in 3 months, been collecting dust. But glad I got a short ride in.
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I thought it was just me having fād up screen formatting problems since the forum was āfixedā After going down. Reply window doesnāt fit (words get cut off), reply button is off screenā¦need to find somewhere on screen it will let you pinch to minimize it, then it appearsā¦ also posting pics is a pain in the ass too.
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are you planning on fixing and using it? Maybe with a carbon fibre patch? Good practice for skinning a deck in future or similar
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Swizzlin
Debating coming back to this hill after homework tonight and bombing it again.
I bombed it just now but not as hard as Iād like
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Wear all the pads dude!!!
This thing already looks so dangerous!!!
Haha Iāll wear the same padding I do when I go ride. I still need to do all the electrical work now. Gonna mount the battery and esc behind the seat on that bracket
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Oh shoot, did you hit something?! For me itās always the cracks that get me. If Iād just slow down before hitting themā¦
I think Iām officially giving up on the Double Stack enclosure for this setup and having Tomiboi build me a single stack instead.
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Itās definitely reduced my traffic here. I have to be at full patience to post replies and new posts ot be on my pc. Was hoping it would get smoothed out but it didnāt and decided to just start complaining. 
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There was this lip in the road, which I normally go over fine but either I was at a different angle or the flat tire lowered me and it hit hard enough to snap several square cm of petg through the layers, bend the Alu top plate and 4 steel screws.
Thin is good, but you could fix it.
Your situation sounds a lot like what happened with mine. My ESC heat sink sits lower than the rest of the enclosure, and it loves to snag on random edges.
So you think repairing the enclosure is actually the way to go, though? I didnāt realize there were many viable options for fixing something like that. Iād be interested in learning the right method if youāve got insight on it ā seems like it could be a really useful skill if the repair holds up long-term.
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