i believe these are it
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Yeppp itās these.
@chr1spe really depends on what your use case is.
They require a widened hub with 4" lips, total hub width around 85-95mm depending on preference. If youād have the same setup I do by the time youād get through a set of tires, youād need to change hubs as well due to the bearing seats widening (although this can potentially be remedied by glueing in the bearings when the hub is still new) and get through multiple sets of bearings, assuming you donāt experiment with double row bearings which I didnāt end up doing yet.
Overall Iād say they arenāt ideal for bad roads, they are quite uncomfortable compared to most pneumatics due to their stiff sidewalls.
Where they shine is a race tire setup that can be trashed running over glass, taken offroad etc, can be taken to countless practice sessions (been racing on the same set for months, trying to do daily practise sessions when I could) while expecting decent performance on good surfaces in decent temperatures. They feel nice around the grip limit, they react quick, but arenāt so aggressive that you have to be on pro level to save it when you go over the limit. Iād say they are a really good tire for racing on intermediate to advanced level, assuming your board wouldnāt be sky high on around 210mm tires. In certain conditions they can compete in top level as well, but then they really need everything to be just right.
I definitely got my moneyās worth with them, during the time I was using these I improved my racing skills a ton. I still use them on some race tracks and for riding my raceboard off track. But Iām gonna be experimenting with new tire setups next year, hoping to find something that isnāt so dependant on the conditions being right to perform at the top level.
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What mitten is that? I need to buy oneā¦thank you.
Itās a bespoke pogie made by Bar Mitts. Did a breakdown of it in this thread: Winter riding in the Midwest - #38 by lidocaineus. Iām holding a puck in that post, but it will accomodate a z.mote with no problem. You may have trouble fitting a GT2B in there 
.
The other mitten hand (where I donāt need to hold a remote) has a more normal ArcāTeryx Beta Down Mitten. Both are fully windproof and will get and stay extremely warm.
(rando noise to get around the repost guard after I replied to the wrong thread).
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is it ELRS?
or just the same LORA modem that ELRS stuff is based on?
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Thatās ELRS.
Iām using 2 receivers. Receiver in the remote is flashed as TX, the other on the board is running PWM output at 100hz for now. So itās probably not at 8ms yet, but still feels way better than all the flipskys and Uni1.
Ultimately I want to add VESC uart output mode to ELRS firmware to get even lower latency and full telemetry.
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oh is this your Mod?
Thereās a bunch of people running Radiomaster Mt12 to get a combo of ELRS, and a trigger remote.
I was joking with them that all the new flipskys have the same LORA modem. soā¦ itās āprobably the sameā. 
but protocols, and latencies matter. as youāre expressing. good on ya.
(also they like throttle curve adjustments in the remote. but edgetx is a heavy hand )
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Awesome, didnāt even know they had ELRS for cars.
Yea.
My main problem is that I had 1 full throttle runaway on VX1 (pan163cx), and 3 full throttle runaways on VX1 PRO (with the e28gm12s LORA chipset). The problem with Flipsky and Spintend (same pan163cx) remotes is that when they failsafe they can keep repeating last packet for up to 5 seconds. So what usually happens is you punch the throttle in a noisy RF area, rise in current creates even more interference and the board gets stuck in full throttle.
Iāve conducted a bunch of tests with RF interference on different receivers like this:
A bunch of 2.4ghz devices around the receiver - remotes, mice, phones, cameras, router and elrs module blasting at 500mw. Iāll compile the video at some point.
Both Flipsky and Spintend lose connection relatively easy in this test, just 2-3m away.
So far ELRS holds way stronger, I have to walk downstairs to get it to disconnect, and when it failsafes it cuts throttle in a fraction of a second.
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Street riding a no go anymore the vibration got to it.
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do they repeat? or is it just the VESC timeout. which defaults to 1s which is far to long. until that expires it keeps the last throttle signal it received.
I suspect the receiver might just bridge the packets sent from the remote over the air to the uart. and not really have a āfailsafeā
I think thatās why we see the issue more with uart remotes.
for ServoControl (PWM, PPM) we just luck out that the recievers do have a failsafe on disconnect which is faster, than the internal vesc timeoutā¦ so most people donāt see it. but you can get the same effect if you cut the servo input from the receiver to the vesc.
everyone should turn that timeout down by default. more vesc things
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Glad youāre safe, why not pneumies for street riding?
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Torque activities / grip activities @zero_ads
Mostly because I need riding time as it is in a race.
Same setup yk? Street just tends to be a little different than traditional practice I ride at weird times / schedule doesnāt always line up with i2s
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So cool! Nothing better then experimental reproduction.
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Not sure if you considered it, but on flipsky remotes the potentiometer is also quite prone to failure, which can induce that same full throttle behavior.
My last ride on a flipsky remote on my mountainboard it full throttled the board unexpectedly 3 times in a row. Saved it two times, fell the 3rd time.
Then I swapped out the potentiometer, and continued cautiously using that remote a couple more rides on a low power board without issues.
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Oh, I see what you mean, yes itās entirely possible that all these receivers just stop sending UART packets when they failsafe.
I found that setting, mine was set to 1s. But the runaway is really 5s or so, I have a shaky video of where it does it precisely 5s:
Just to be clear I havenāt had a runaway on Uni1 yet, but it behaves exactly like Flipsky remotes. I should really make a better video.
Iāll also have to compare that to PWM output on Flipsky and Uni1.
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Yes, I had that issue on one of my old remotes, but I was losing throttle.
If you think about it these cheap remotes are ridiculously unsafe. And there arenāt really any options.
I havenāt tried Hoyt Puck, I hope it has better failsafe handling. From the pictures it looks suspiciously similar to pan163cx chipset. But with itās funky shape and $200 (with shipping+handling) price, itās hard to consider.
Hoyt boasts 16 channel frequency hopping, but itās a pretty old technology, and itās not entirely bulletproof.
I remember frequency hopping was used about 10 years ago on drones (turnigy, frsky, flysky etc), and it was notoriously unreliable, until LORA systems like Crossfire became a standard.
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and make your own thread on this stuff. 
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Theyāre the radium thane belts, have found them quite robust and reliable
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