Yeah Iām going to need the files for this pronto.
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Iāve been meaning to adjust the opening for the hex plate, i fucked it up slightly. I will adjust and post in the 3d files thread
It works really well. I have another roll of solder above for feeding solder onto stuff, i use the little bit out of the octopus just for tinning the iron. I love it
Edit: also wanna make some big holes in the walls just to save on filament, its a bit overkill as it is.
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Did you try turning it off and then on again?
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#justflipskythings
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Put it in rice, that should absorb all the char, good as new in a day
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lol nothings butchered. Just a mock-up. Not meant to be ridden.
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The used/in-pieces Nazare I bought had the corner melted off of the base of the Unity due to the P.O. accidentally touching it to one of the hot screws securing the main fuse on the sentinel board. Aside from vaporizing some Aluminum and a chunk of the head of the screw, no damage was done 
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Getting ready to Esk8 on the moon and mars?
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when i find out how to put rocket propellers on my board yes
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I recently sprayed flexseal in my tires bc Iām tired on cactus needle flats.
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Is it flexible though? I thought that it hardens out therefore reducing the flexibility of the tire?
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Flexseal 
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Lol i understand. I googled it instanly but based on the user revieuws it cracked easily and as a wheel has another characteristics than a roof and other materials i read so far ā¦i was curious before ordering
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What are you making?
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You donāt need a primer layer on wood when using acrylics. Painting directly on wood sanded to a medium grit is so much nicer.
Both methods will work just fine but the feeling of painting directly on the wood canāt be beat
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Im actually not even going to use paint besides the white basecoat, and i only really did that because this thing is seriously worn. Looked like it had sat in water for a few days lol. Still not set on colors, but im def doing resin coats for them<3
Or, actually thats not entirely accurate. Doing a clearcoat of resin, and staining over it, then coating it with more clear.
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I usually sand off any kind of nasty surfaces but that is also because I use them for fine art use and I donāt want to risk leaving that nasty surface under everything. Plus it is so satisfying to paint sanded wood.
If you want to use resin, then you can also do acrylic paint and then a layer of resin on top of that. Iāve had good results using epoxy over painted wood as well as polyurethane over painted wood. Which might be easier than trying to paint the cold beer text with the resin
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Vinyl painters tape is your friend for resin work 
only thing ive been able to get clean lines with at all.
The letters might be a biiiiit tough, but w my usual tech it should be fine. Clear coat, sit for a day. Small brush and use wood stain for colors(my stains work on wood, glass, epoxy, stoneā¦ Basically everything except urethane), dry for 30 minutes, topcoat.
Same tech i used on the jotnarr almost. Jotnarr was so big i applied the black with a knife, only way i could get straight lines lmao
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Thatās what hands are for
Are you adding the wood stain to the uncured epoxy or staining the epoxy after it is cured? just curious as Iāve currently been grinding up charcoal to add to my epoxy to add color, but I do have black all purpose leather paint. I also havenāt tried adding india ink to uncured epoxy yet since Iām waiting for better epoxy to be delivered.
I just didnāt want to go out and buy pigments when I have plenty that arenāt being used.