šŸ–¼ Reply to ā€œPictures and nothing elseā€ thread_2020_summer

The key to taking them apart is to understand how they are put together.

Once you split the case and unscrew the bms, you need to cut the strips from the bms pcb.

Then you can pull that apart and get the cells out of the plastic holder. From there, I cut the nickle along the flat side to get 4 cells linked in a p.

Then you just need to plug the nickel from the flat side and then I pull each cell off.

Now you have to clean up the positive terminal because nickle is still attached to it. And then your done!

Hummie and I are going to have some great deals on these batteries within the next few weeks.

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Oh I know the steps,
real cool to see you guys making these packs and to see the sudden interest In these cells. Will make a lot of people happy :call_me_hand:

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I hope people like them! The battery so far seems very stable. Hummies pcb is very flexible and has built in balance wires.

Very easy to use, safer imo and these are the safest cells you could use.

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From what I remember itā€™s a 12s3p, for 200$ right? Subject to change I assume, but very cool and well priced :ok_hand:

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@evoheyax, please donā€™t use kapton tape like you did. Sell them with a big shrink wrap if you can. Preferably transparent.

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well Iā€™ll be gawd damned if that ainā€™t a TB 160 repressed by Sunmate cloneā€¦

@mods give @Venom121212 the hardy-boy badge, pleaseā€¦

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The problem with the heat shrink is it prevents Flexibility in one direction.

I wanted to agree with you and I ordered tons of heat shrink for this. But I have to agree with John that the kapton is better than heatshrink.

The key is that every cell is independent from the next. It needs to flex with the deck and not have one cell pull on another. If one cell pulls onto the next, it will put stress on the nickel and the fear is that will lead to failures.

The kapton holds the cells and nickel, as well as the silicon we put between each cell and the pcb. But the heat shrink will pull cells and prevent flex.

We do have a prototype board that will be running in the coming days so we can start testing.

John did sell a few pcb batteries like this before and they are still going as far as we know.

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We are aiming for $200 without a bms and $250 with bms.

Weā€™re debating because we donā€™t want to sell batteries and have people wire them incorrectly and make a warranty claim. So weā€™re not 100% sure yet how we will proceed.

But it will be a great deal. One option will likely be a deck, enclosure, battery, bms, metr pro, and official vesc 6ā€™s pre wired. Just add your own drive train, set the settings, and go. Probably somewheres around $1200 in that case.

The issue is with this battery, thereā€™s not enough space for a storm core or even focboxes, and the bms. But there is enough for vesc 6ā€™s and the bms.

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Seems like a lot of ground to cover my friend. Offering the battery with bms sounds good, but at the same time an option without the battery sounds good to save a little. Maybe offer a slimmed/reduced warranty with the battery -bms version?? :man_shrugging: Maybe that and offer an enclosure that fits well with the battery/pcb sizeā€¦ other than that most people like to pick their own escs, decks, etc.
Thatā€™s just my view tho, and Iā€™m not your typical buyer.
Never da less gl with the packs!

@evoheyax It makes sense. What if you shrink wrap it in the flexed state? Then it would work, no?

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Did you build a gym in your house? If you did, did you buy locally or order from China?

Iā€™ve met him countless times, I think he isā€¦ ā€¦? Idk

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Custom made headlights or scavenged flashlight parts with 3d printed housing?

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The reason why we pad up.

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Everything locally. I managed to get 500$ discount plus free shipping because I bought all at the same time.

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DRLā€™s from Ebay!

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Sweet find m8!

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I had been looking for a while on making my own lights for this and got my inspiration from this guy

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But they arenā€™t exactly bright? I had a few of them, seemed fairly disappointingā€¦