I actually do use the same kind of fuse for the charge port:
Why not? Fused loop key makes a lot of sense to me. If it blows, itās easy to replace. When testing, I can carry another loop key in my pocket and not have to push home in case the test doesnāt work out as expected.
I have 50A current limit on each motor. Iām going to add 30A battery limit per VESC as well so that I donāt exceed 60A battery limit total, though I donāt really ever do.
60A for a few secs should be perfectly safe. Thereās padding. Even at 2x rated current the fuse should take a few seconds to blow (according to the data sheet).
Iām thinking of putting on all my protective gear and doing some uphill runs with hard acceleration. Maybe carry the board downhill until I have enough confidence the fuses donāt blow under hard braking current.
Thatās very unlikely to happen since braking currents are much lower than discharge currents. If the fuse blows, it will probably be while accelerating and not while braking.
I would still rather fry my vescs than burn down my board (again) in case thereās a short.
Yes, I realize that. This actually didnāt work out quite as I have imagined. I thought I would be able to keep the loop key way smaller than if using a single automotive fuse. Itās not that small at the end though.
Anyway, I will test it very carefully before deciding whether I want to keep it or not.
One other problem I realized is that the terminals of some fuses are very close to each other and may actually touch and bridge the fused connection. It would have been better to put a heatshrink around each fuse.
Now I have to go through the trouble putting the 7" hubs back on adjust the motors/belts change info in Metr Pro. aināt nobody got time for this I gotta R.E.D.
Any other wrench would still be whole ā but instead of buying a new wrench, now you have a stripped-out grubscrew fucking up your skate. So instead of a $5 problem, itād be a $1500 problem
@257 Here you go, this listing is actually hard to find
Lol thatās one way to look at it. It didnāt seem like I was cranking on it hard enough to snap like it did but it do I suppose I am thankful it didnāt strip my motor shaft grub screw beyond removal
@janpom similarly was done in the old forum with just one automotive fuse. Donāt remember who did it, but he removed all the plastic parts of the fuse and just used the fuse blade. I think you can get the midi fuse blades just as they are without casing.
If itās still too big you could just print a T shaped cover for the loopkey and hide the fuse inside there.