Another thing i did was to only update the screen every few loops, you don’t to change the display that often, still if a single write takes too long youll go over time, but you can potentially round robin which part of the screen you update per loop lol! Or write a whole multi threaded operating system!
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Haha yeah, I used to do something like that with different “instruments” which would update sequentially, that was driving a big TFT with a 328p… That particular experience is why I chose such an overkill MCU for the Redstar, so that I can just point the DMA engine at a big dumb buffer and say “go” 
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This is completely unrelated to one wheels.
But I am wondering if the low speed of one of these would work for an oddball application. I al looking to make a tow motor for an aircraft.
Doesn’t need to go very fast a walking pace is fine but it has to have enough torque to get moving with a 1500 lb load.
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Seems like a better idea would be a belt/chain/gear drive imo.
Hub motors are much better for a super space constrained thing like a Funwheel.
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Is this for full scale aircraft? You’ll definitely need something more powerful than this motor. While there are 10+ kW hub motors such as those sold by QSmotor, @Fosterqc is right in that it’s more efficient to have a fast-spinning motor geared down, you’ll get away with a physically smaller and cheaper motor for the same power & output torque.
Or maybe, a larger hub motor like this with the cable going around an axle or the smallest drum possible… would certainly pull 1500 lb 
You’d want to get the lowest Kv possible for greater torque/amp since you don’t need speed. I have gotten those guys to sell down to 7 Kv for a robotics application with good results.
I’ve been looking more at electric wheelbarrow motors but this looked a little more low profile.
You can move an aircraft with very low wattage but you are correct in that it needs to be very low speed.
How tightly can your cable be wound? If you wind it around a 2 cm diameter axle or something you could get away with much more options.
What cable are you referring to?
Tow motors like this attach to the nose landing gear and then the wheel pressing on the ground drives it forwards and backwards.
Here is an example.
https://www.powertow.com/ThunderVolt-12-Volt-DC-Aircraft-Tug-_p_17.html
I’m just thinking of a way to make a DIY option.
Perhaps I should start a new thread so I am not derailing yours.
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You’ll be best off making something like this.
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There are many types of these things.
The goal I have in mind is something DIY that can be built from off the shelf parts without welding.
One of the issues with some designs is that many aircraft have wheel pants so that rules out roll under or wheel contact designs.
The remote control ones you also have to keep in mind the steering limits. It is really easy to collapse the landing gear if you try to push it at a steep angle.
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Ah, I see. I was imagining some kind of winch. This motor definitely has too low torque for that kind of application, unless you make a really small diameter axle extension and have that make contact with the wheel to increase the torque.
I was mostly seeing if this was in the realm of possibilities.
And if it was a failure I could just make a one wheel.
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Oh man one of these would make a rediculous one wheel or euc.
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Hey guys,
I’ve been thinking of building a funwheel and found this forum. It’s awesome!
I have almost everything thought out and ready to order but I’m still not sure about the motor. I’ve noticed the numerous versions of the phub-188 motor peipeiscooter is selling (250W - 800W and 24V - 60V). Do you think they are all the same motor? I’m considering the 800W version (if it’s any different at all from the other ones) and changing the termination to delta for extra speed. But I’m not sure about the voltage rating I should get (that is again if they are not the same of course). I’m planning on running a 12S battery pack and the SuperFOC6.8 (for the onboard balance).
Overall is that a good combo? I’d appreciate any suggestions.
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Welcome!
Definitely go for the 800W version, the way the motor is built would allow for easily making different power versions. Worst case is you get the same old Phub, so nothing to lose It appeared that there was no difference with the voltages, all Phubs I know of have had about 10Kv so unless something has changed, it’ll have no effect. A delta-terminated Phub at 12s would easily have enough speed.
Does the SuperFOC have the IMU integrated, I did not see that in the product page. If not you’ll need to connect one to it. I think it’s a good combo as long as you get a IMU one way or another in it.
Well, it says the SuperFOC6.8 is based on the VESC6 which does have it integrated. But I will order some just to be sure. Btw is there a noticeable difference between the SuperFOC6.8 and the MTVESC50A?
Also, how should I connect the footpad sensors to the VESC if I’m not going to be using an Arduino?
“Based on VESC6” just means the overall design (3 shunts, DRV and so on), it does not mean it has an IMU. Some of the official VESC6’s also had the IMU slot unpopulated. I’d imagine they would advertise it’s presence, so I think it doesn’t have an IMU.
This is from the guy who wrote the balance app, NuRxG. One goes between 3.3 and SCK, the other between 3.3 and MISO, which I assume must be analog pins also on the VESC.
I do not use the balance app so I’m not super informed about it.
MTVESC50A is based on the older 4.12 design, with 2 shunts instead of 3 on the vesc 6. Apparently having 3 leads to better tracking of the motor and I think the design has a bunch of incremental improvements as well (old 4.12 used to blow running foc, but they have since improved). Haven’t had any problems with my 4.12 based FOCBOX, but it is one of the better implementations of that design. I’d say the build and component quality matters more than whether it’s 4.12 or 6 based in the end for reliability, and for power it’s just about what FETs it has and how they are cooled.
OK. I’ll go with the SuperFOC6.8 and look more into the switches.
Thanks for the help, now I’m really looking forward to finishing the project.
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Lots of things have happened and are happening with the Redstar.
Figured out the screen, it’ happily showing everything now including a list of recent events (overcurrent, low battery detect, disagreements between one of the IMUs and that sort of stuff)
Also made a much more powerful 12s3p battery pack with VTC6 cells to get some more speed and allow for more motor current at high speed.
The thing is absolutely packed with cells, and has no space for the usual Daly BMS. Since the flexiBMS is not yet available I had to substitute with this 6€ thing, but turns out it doesn’t actually balance the battery, only cuts if the voltages get too high or low…
For now I’ll use the balance connectors on the new pack to occasionally check that it’s not drifting, and this “bms” (bypassed) is there to cut charging if that’s the case. Clumsy, but should do until I sort out the BMS situation.
The pack is built in the same way as the previous one, but with space for connectors and BMS used to pack in more cells. I pre-soldered some copper braids to the nickel strip to beef them up before welding them in.
With the two sets of balancing wires (bms + external) and some connectors for disassembly the pack was an absolute pain to put together
Had to temporarily glue wires in the place to prevent “wire pressure” from pushing them outside their channel. BMS fits just barely in there…
But it went together! Next is to do some load tests with the scooter so I know the connections are good before I trust it in Redstar.
With this battery, I’ll have more watt-hours than the Onewheel XR and similar speed, all fitted to a smaller (but heavier) board. Yes
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About my BMS problem, I have been thinking about making one of my own since the promising FlexiBMS is not available yet. I’m certain I could pull off a design for a perfectly working one, but less certain that it would be perfectly safe… Even the FlexBMS would be hard pressed (har) to fit into this enclosure, so I’d have to make a smaller one or enter a world of wire managing pain I cannot even bear to imagine
Just a little uC commanding one of those neat analog devices BMS chips and talking over can.
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