This, or something like it is interesting, certainly easier than rewinding or chopping up the motor. I’d have to redesign the electronics box and spend some money, and I’d likely wait until those are a bit more proven since I’d really hate for it to cut out at 30 kph… A 18S2P pack sounds pretty zwanky, I’d certainly like to make one and it’d just about fit inside the current frame if I get rid of the BMS…
I’ll get around to getting one of those or messing with the motor eventually.
It would be cool! Sadly this current design is too work intensive for me to make especialliy as I actually don’t own the milling machine needed for this. It could be simplified a lot by making the ends square and getting them lasercut, but that still leaves the machined wheel holders 
This is super cool, I have wanted to make one for a while, will bookmark this for sure
Peipei scooter has some interesting products and ok prices besides shipping. God damn they fucking suck though.
36v 600w
kV: yes
This gets even funnier when you realize that just like volts and watts above, the spelling is wrong — because kV is kilovolts, not Kv like motor rpm/volt 
I would assume it’s just a language barrier thing again. Would be nice to find someone who could sort things out in mandarin (I guess).
@Jopj
What is this VESC balancing app thing about? I suppose I missed something, is there a build in Onewheel implementation for the VESC planed for the near future or something?
BTW the sealing seam on your printed part looks very nice how you done that?
Science has no language. “kV” is kilovolts, no matter the language.
I’m not sure who coded it, but there is now an app in the latest version of the VESC tool that lets you use an IMU and a VESC to control a onewheel or electric unicycle without the need for an arduino or another additional processor.
I asked them the same thing a few month ago:
I think it’s NuRxG from the .builders forum who did that. It’s a nice approach, why fiddle with code and add extra components to do what the VESC can do by itself. Some of the VESC variants even have an inbuilt IMU so no external components needed 
I’m totally not thinking how much effort it would have saved me to wait a few months to do this, then just tweak the VESC app. Well, I learned a bunch about control systems rolling my own. 
maybe ask them whats the top speed for 36v?
Oh I’m lazy I forgot to post this.
He said it twice so you know it’s legit
Mine looks to be 10 Kv, so likely is the same.
@Jopj
So you picked the phub-188 motor and it happens to have about 10kV.
I’m wondering what the phub-141 has?
I shot them a mail about that one, which I tried to keep as simple as possible (so that google translate can hopefully even translate it in mandarin 
), I basicly just asked “how much RPM on 36V”.
Either I convince myself and try to change the phub-188 termination for a bit more speed. As
I tend to agree with you that “about 16 km/h” on the onewheel is just a tad low (25 km/h whould be nice). Because I’m really intrigued about a DIY onewheel even though I probably will pick up a original VESC6 and try the (new) in build balancing stuff. <- because I’m useless regarding programming stuff … except gcode maybe (my brother is killing me right now for calling that programming stuff) without detailed guides.
Pei Scooter replyied back (already 
)
Me: I’m interested in the phub-141 (600W) tyre, how high can the RPM be with 36V?
Pei Scooter:
"In general, It is 600rpm when 36v.We can use our pps-1 controller to program the speed.
Thanks
Dawn"
Which would mean that the kV of the phub-141 should be kV: 16.6 , but maybe their shop is just mislabeled and the 250(W), 350(W), 500(W) and 600(W) is actually the max RPM … the different wattages in the same “package/housing” just don’t make any sense unless they use less copper and a different core for these. Either the selection of the voltage and wattage of their site is useless and all of these are the same or they messed up with the labeling and confuse different things.
Also the 350W (if 350RPM) and 600W (if 600RPM) could also be the same motor with different termination … the 350RPM as delta and the 600RPM as wye would fit the numbers quite well (350/600 ≈ 1/1.732 ; 250RPM/500W =/= 1/1.732 … on the otherhand 
)
I think you are thinking too much into it.
They can customize your motor kV and maybe use different wire but I doubt it. I believe that is only for bulk orders although I could be wrong. There has got to be better hub motor manufacturers in China we could buy from for our DIY EUCs.
The reason they list 250(W), 350(W), 500(W) 600(W)
Is for “dumb” people they are marketing towards.
“250W sounds good I don’t want 500W”
Basically this is common practice on AliExpress I’m pretty sure
pei pei only has to stock one model, unless I’m wrong about that customization thing for non bulk/custom orders. Wonder what the minimum would be.
@Fosterqc
My theorycrafting there was me just joking around to be honest. I can’t help myself but chinese b2c is just such a random experience that my mind is beginning to make up the wierdest products.
You are probably right that they just stock one model and are able to customize according to customer/agent demand.
My guess would be that they take custom orders at 10+ units, there is also this listing on their shop https://peiscooter.com/11-inch-11inch-bldc-350w-500w-super-wide-tire-brushless-dc-hub-motor-for-electric-scooter-phub-44.html
^which is also a good candidate for a onewheel btw
@Jopj
Alright you inspired me, I will go and build my own 
I will try the original VESC 6 (already got one) and I ordered the phub-141. I will probably take a look inside the hubmotor for some in depth info like how many poles/magnets, actual calculated kV, termination, how difficult is it to change the termination.
The foot switches will be similar to yours (I like the velostat idea, very low profile/low movement and that at unbeatable price also fun to play with the leftovers).
I will use a N.E.S.E assembled battery (8-12S … propably 3P as I have some hardware waiting for utilization) and weld my frame mostly from some stainless rectangular tube (already got some raw material)
The actual size of the board is a question I have yet to ask myself but probably around the OW+ XR size I guess.
As I have the VESC 6 already I’m tinkering around with the “Balance APP” and came up with the question how to tune the PID on such a self balance vehicle at least very roughly…
It’s a tad frightening playing around with a random motor without any load right now and as I have no backround on selfbalancing (no robots, no quads so far) I’m wondering if there are any “rules of thumb” for the PID values which could at least kinda apply?
I expect to fall multiple times during testing but a starting point could help to keep the fracture risk just a tad lower you know
(I’m all in mad scientist myself, but… you know …the relatives are so annoying when you are insured 
)
