Rayne Darkside Custom Enclosure 34” |Sony VTC6 18650 | Unity | Maytech 6355 170lkv Sealed | Unik Core Mounts w/15mm Belts | DieBieMS - Migrated from ESB

Thought it was time to migrate over my build post from electric skateboard forums. https://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/rayne-darkside-custom-enclosure-34-12s3p-a123-18650-unity-maytech-6355-190lkv-sealed-unik-core-mounts-w-15mm-belts-diebiems-featherremote-85mm-caguama/81591

Things are progressing steadily. I’ve got my top side RGB LEDs rocking, did a fit test with some 3D printed cells, adjusted the fit of the enclosure to smooth out the transition, and got the board graphics in.

Next steps are embedding the LEDs, trying to do the same with some 12v brake lights (but worried about potting the lights in and trapping heat), then applying the graphic layer.


Great to see this project here! I still love that deck and execution!


Looking super dope dude

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Dude, that kicks ass! Great build, can’t believe I just saw this

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Been waiting for this post! Can’t wait to see more!

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Very cool! Matched your user level from Builder’s. Welcome!

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Such a wicked board. Had an otherside I ended up selling. Was just a touch too big. This one would have been perfect. This is a tough deck to fit an enclosure to. Very impressive my dude.

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Thanks y’all, I’m going to need some help when it comes to the electronics stuff down the road here.

In the meantime though the top mount light bars on this thing are going to be sweet!

I also inlayed a copper heat sink since I’ll be running epoxy potted 12v 990/meter brake lights off the back.


Alright, quite an update here. I can never figure out when I’ve reached a milestone worth sharing, but I figured the brake light install was good enough.

To start off I printed off some reference line art for the top facing light strip areas as well as the recess for the motor wires.

I quickly traced those out and cut some of them open.

Then quickly made sure the wiring would fit with this mock up.

I also mocked up the RGBW LEDs that will live under the diffusion elements (I’ll be casting these later but wanted to see how it would look with some test chips I poured earlier).

After removing all that material it quickly became apparent that I had lost a ton of stiffness in the board at the truck mount. I haven’t quite figured out if I want to lay a glass layer on the top to strengthen some of the openings. I want the LED light on the top to be as clean and diffused as it could be, so decided to add material on the underside of the board.

I made a series of several hundred holes in the deck in the area shown below here with a known depth. That way I could grind all the wood away and stop at the depth of the holes knowing the hole surface had been offset to the specified depth.

From here I layered up a bunch of 12oz carbon and ground it away flat. I lost the pictures from that bit but you’ll see more of the underside carbon later.

I then got to setting up the DieBieMS I’ll be using, but unfortunately fried a resistor so I’ll have to get some of those in.

cats. meow.

Next I started working on finishing the shaping, and setting of the tail light heatsink. Part of which was making some space for the power cables. I also routed out a pathway to get the wires inlaid into the board.

This little recess allows me to pull the brake wires out (and push them back in) in the event that I need to change the LEDs out. It also helped a ton putting the first set in. That black wafer will be sealed up and ground flat before the graphic lam goes on so you won’t see any of it.

Here you can see that carbon reinforcement bit at the rear truck mount on the underside of the board. It’s about 2.5-3.0mm and added a ton of stiffness back.


I debated for days on end whether to permanently cast the LEDs in resin, but ultimately through some R&D figured out I could make a negative or hollow space behind the cast resin, so when for that route instead so I can replace the LEDs if any burn out.

That involved some silicone, a light adhesive, wax, some clear hose, hot glue, and a whole lot of anxiety that ultimately paid off.

Once the silicone was removed, I was able to shimmy my LED strip into the space, solder it, and test it out. I’ll close up the hole with some easily removable silicone. I figure the LED should at least last a year or more with the heavy heat sink there helping it out.

I was super happy with the results. All the photos below were shot with 6v on the LEDs. They’re almost blinding when 12v is on but it’ll be a great way to be seen on the road.




That looks so clean! Really great resin pour

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I have to say that the idea of using the clear tube as a mold is genius

When I did my rear 3D printed light, it had a curved cavity that needed to be filled, my best solution was to use electrical tape, if failed tremendously, the heat of the resin curing softened the tape and it looked bad

Just let me know if I got it right, I liked the idea so much I may try on the rest of my board

You wax both the tube and the silicone rectangle strip, seal everything with hot glue leaving one side open to pour the resin, once cured you just remove the tube and you can pull the silicone easily out leaving the cavity?


here here! It only came to me days after stewing over what not to do. I did go back and forth over using a 3D printed mold, then foam core & hot glue, it really wasn’t until the last minute that I thought I could even make the lights removable.

You’re damn close. You’re definitely right about heat. The heatsink I actually think helped pull heat out of the curing resin (+1 for that!) You’ll need a vinyl tube, no wax needed, it’s basically a mirror finish inside so doesn’t need any mold release or anything. The trick for me was putting wax (almost grease maybe? basically I used Burt’s Bees lip balm) and slathered it on the silicone strip. One it acts as a lubricate to extract the thing, but two and actually the game changer for me was that if you load it on heavy enough it actually causes it to stick to the substrate (copper in my case) and can support its own weight upside-down.

I did try to plug one side and pour the other, but ended up pulling the plug and pouring both. A low viscocity resin works best too. I used total boat’s clear cause it’s thin enough to wet glass but also uv resistant.

I messed with like 3 different attempts to do this and the best one was silicone + grease. Here’s a picture of the test run I did in a full tube. The Burt’s Bees didn’t heat up enough even with a full tube to release from the aluminum rod, it even cured fully upside down like the board.

You should try it again with the tube, hot glue and everything.



I may skip the cavity thing and put the led strip in middle of the resin, never had a problem with them as long as you test before, apart the one time I forgot to route the VESC ground and all current passed through the leds when powering it on

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Made some more headway with the deck lighting. I potted both channels and rough sanded the flash area leaving about 0.50mm of height on the epoxy for a later final sand and gloss. I’m really stoked about how it turned out.


Wow, awesome custom work … cant wait for the finish of your build !

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Very cool. Kind of reminds me of this.


And I’m back at it. Slow and steady.


You’re not joking around! Definitely following this build. Very nice


That came out clean… What kind of fabric is that? Custom graphic?

custom graphic, yes. I think it’s a 3oz S-glass

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