I believe @RobNO is working on something too. Involving extra effort to cool the hubs.
I do, in EU. Needs new urethane tho. Make me an offer if interested
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Love it and if its a solution to our wheel problem, I will buy for sure! 
great work btw…
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Hi Mark. Bumped your account so you can message. Let me know if you have any questions.
Welcome!
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Thanx
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So my raptor had a bms problem that caused that some of the series in the battery pack to drain close to 0v. I was able to revieve every series except for one that will not hold charge anymore.
So now i am looking for a new or used battery pack for a raptor 2 for around 200 euro in the EU.
Hopefully someone can help me.
Kind regards Kutvis
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Printing the mold cores and sleeves. Needs some post finishing but should have a functional wheel in a couple of weeks.
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I support your idea 200%, but if we do not account for the heat powerusers will generate, we’ll still be only at a point with temporary sleeves. You could pour a mold with the original sleeves, just need some DIY solution to keep the strengthening ring in perfect position while the sleeve cures.
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The holes I put in the core is going to correspond with holes I’m going to drill in the motor. I think the only way to get heat out of it is to vent it. There’s just too much thick steel surrounding the stator to cool it any other way. Also decided to go with 97 to make some room for the plastic core sleeve. I’m currently trying to print some mold enclosures that will secure and center the core with thane on the outside.
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Wow there are a lot of mad people here. Stop arguing each other nobody is saying that enertion is a great company.
I don’t think raptor is shit tough…but it’s obvious a lot of people have problems with it. Maybe I got lucky with my 2.0 which I upgraded with focbox unity. I ride in fully wet ground and I only got a bit of condensation inside it when I opened the board 3 month later. No big deal but I’ll improve the seal for sure.
Yes I’m working on a wheel design with an aluminum core to prevent exploading (safety first)
I did a rough mold design on my evenings but yes I’m studying right now. @BluPenguin what do you plan to put on the mold to prevent urethane to stick on it?
Honestly, if it’s good enough, I would love to produce it for you but the aluminum core is such a pain to machine. It took me 8hours. It’s not well designed enough to be cost effective in “mass” production. Best I can do is share drawings
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December 19th, we spoke about BMS. Scroll up
For effective it need be nylon material. Alu will heat up too much and cause same problem.
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I did something nearly identical to that except I’m using a high temp plastic core. I think it might bond to the PU better and maybe help with vibrations. I’m gonna try a quick version using silicon molds and generous amounts of mold release and go from there. I also drilled a circle of 6mm holes on both sides of the motor for air cooling and I have an idea on how to enhance it further. I’ve already got the plastic core mold down, just working on the PU model now.
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If you use a silicone mold you need little to no release. Watch out how much release you do use as it can be mixed into your urethane and weaken it.
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Does anyone know how to make Raptor 2 sensorless? Sensors in one of my motors are broken. I’ve downloaded Foxbox UI but can’t seem to find how to switch from sensored to sensorless. Thanks in advance.
Thanks for the tip. I’ve never molded PU before so it’s a learning experience for me.
Just unplug the sensor wire from the ESC and do motor detection set as sensorless. Run it through FOCBOX tool instead of UI
I’ve done a ton. Let me know if you want any input. Urethane and silicone are unlike rubbers and don’t stick to each other. You can take advantage of that and skimp on the release. Using like rubbers you really need the release. Or metal molds, urethane sticks like crazy to metal.
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Thanks. Which one is the sensor wire?