Personally I more a fan of machining a new front plate to convert them to direct drive, that honestly seems the easiest route.
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You need a longer axle as well to cope with the forces of the wheel.
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Yeah there’s a number of issues, but I have enough samples to experiment with till I dial it in, really it’s all an effort on futility because these things were all f***d from the get go.
Meeop only charge’s $38+ship for them. Which seems pretty reasonable considering. Add the price of high quality thane to that and you’re at $60-70 a pair. Obviously sliding a bunch on them wouldn’t be the best idea but I think that goes for any hubs.
WIP : 3D print is on it’s way (test model, 20%filling full PLA, just to verify the model. Full impression with dual material and 80% filling would be 24h and 30% material loss just for the head cleaning “tower”.
If model is good, I’ll try to machine the inner part in aluminum. I’ll then 3Dprint a mold in 3 parts and cast a 2 compounds urethane 
Urethane goes through the aluminum insert and make the tightening on the motor. The tightening is adjustable by changing the inner part diameter of the mold.
Just a bit skeptical for the lathe part with a 2.5mm tickness.
@visnu777 what are the best PU for wheel casting?
Wanted to put the files but can’t do that on the forum apparently
EDIT: link to files : https://1drv.ms/u/s!AqPnjK6msoXV4hYW1TKNhXJmbxnn?e=UWB5m5
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This is the best we normal people can do without special tools. The BJB stuff @hummieee used is impossible to get in Europe but theres some thats almost the same and it can be delivered here. (Assuming the NO in you nickname refers to Norway :D)
The wheel looks better than the original but the problem is still similar: All force is applied to the front plate but its more stron since its not made of PU itself. You need to prevent the PU going sideways too, this is what every company that does hubs do with the caps.
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The N O is for my name: Hennaut 
I’m from Belgium!
Actually I’m not tha tmuch concerned about axial forces on the front plate (as I struggle so hard to remove the wheel). The real concern for me is radial centrifuge effect force and torsion due to rotation induced by the 5 screws only if the friction is not high enough between the sleeves and the motors.
If someone have good wheel design that’s the moment! (slick wheels vs some lines in it to get better grip on slippery ground). I’ll add a chamfered edge or a a rounded edge
Thanks for the PU informations I’ll dig it out
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And actually, you can see it if you download the files but the PU il locked behind the plate (I’ve put “une gorge” (don’t know how to say that in english) )
Oh, sorry, my interest in these is pretty basic since I don’t own raptor hubs (fortunately) so I didnt download your files 
I’m rooting for you buddy! This is really cool!
Btw don’t forget: there are 5 screws but 10 holes☝️
I admire your determination RobNO. I was just browsing at some threads in the other forum and stumbled on an R2 accident report I hadn’t seen before. The photo made me realise for the first time how delicate outwheels can be, especially on motors that run as hot as these. It almost made me want to give up on my R2 hubs to be honest.
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I feel like I’ve seen a few of these.
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Jason said the rotor doesn’t get hot only the stator gets hot. 
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No more trusted source these days. Case closed.
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Raptor owners are scavengers…
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You see them by the roadside with those sad “Got 'Thane?” signs. Breaks my heart.
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This PU is not good quality can see some break it no cure proper. Also no heat shield to help protecting from motor hot.
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Do these metal sleeves protect the PU from heat?
ownboard_replacable_pu_wheel_with_white_color_333b93d7-1894-454a-baf8-57e70fab414b_1080x.webp (11.2 KB)
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Nylon working better.
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Maybe I’ll add a nylon layer to protect PU from heat but I need to see how I can make that without braking the PU bounds that goes trough the aluminum plate (on my design).
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