Awesome. Keep us posted when the new BMS is in.
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Well, I plugged everything to charge it. Good news, nothing exploded. Bad news, my battery still won’t charge over 55%. I checked each pack of cells and I have different voltage between 3.6V to 4.8 V. So I don’t understand why it doesn’t balance…!
93880128_233544881071634_435751039501598720_n|279x500
10S4P : Voltage mesured: 42V
Pack 1 : 3,62V
Pack 2 : 3,63v
Pack 3 : 3,65
Pack 4 : 3,66
Pack 5 : 3,85
Pack 6 : 4,79
Pack 7 : 4,83
Pack 8 : 4,81
Pack 9 : 4,78
Pack 10 :4,8
So pack 6 to 10 are over charged…
? How did that happen without blowing up? Sure there is not a short somewhere
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I removed the raptor BMS. So I’m a littlebit nervous about this pack now until It’s gonna be well discharged. So since november this pack is in my appartment without any sign so. The worst is past I think 
Well after my ghetto repair seen above with replacing dead cells the board works. I gonna order new cells to replace the bad once. Still looking for a smart BMS which will fit into the board.
@Kram720 yeah, that’s perfectly normal. They do that so the same BMS PCB can work for multiple series count batteries. Since yours is only a 10s the other wires aren’t needed and if you look at the under side of the board the unused pins are bridged over with solder
Got the same. Still welding my battery together. Feel free to share the wire diagram. Still scratching my head
Batt through the fuse as standard,
From the fuse or link the b- to the b on the bms
I desoldered the charge plug from the original bms and attached wires to it.
+to main + on esc side of the fuse.
Charge- to the c on the bms.
Then plug in the old charge port.
Pull the blue/white switch wires from the unity and plug the switch in direct.
You now have the advantage of knowing what’s going where so can apply better cable managment than I did😁
@Kram720 If this is not to much to ask, can you supply a drawing of the wiring pretty please? I assume this config is charge only? I was planing on charge/discharge config. Just no clue how to wire it up.
Give me a few days and I’ll pull it apart and take pics,
No need to discharge through the bms.
Check the cells on a phone app and let the unity turn off at the low voltage
Better than power failure mid ride because the bms cracked the shits
I thought about that to but ive red that you can program the low voltage cutoff on the BMS. I would like to protect the battery. After now learning how to manufacture a battery pack from scratch I would like to keep the batteries alive a bit longer than the first ones died to the BS BMS from Enertion. I took the board to the max speed it can go at my current weight which was 30 mph. Now I just want this Enertion Nightmare to end… Enjoy the board … Like I did a year ago… 
Ok I am really running out of ideas here. I try to contact the BMS manufacture with no response after 2 weeks.
All the 11 Pin Balance wires I get where they go…
The issue I am having is the connection between battery, BMS to the FocBox Unity and the barrel charging socket.(neg to C- I guess and the positive??)
Again I want to set it up in charge/discharge config
i haven’t read through this whole thread
but see if this helps
replace P- with C- since you’ve got a smart bms
also if your pack is out of balance
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nope, i see your bms P- is going to the esc (load), right?
that bms is rated at 20A, it’ll choke your esc. that bms is meant to be bypassed, as it’s shown in my diagram.
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It’s rated 60A
Due to the fact that is 60A rated I mentioned earlier that I want to use the charge discharge feature
Kram got the 20A BMS. Same manufacture but a bigger unit
oh ok, the ones i get are 20a