It’s actually the other way round; the chinese wheels have the kegel hub a bit wrong (likely to better fit 3d printed pulleys). Hence why I asked 
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@abusfullofnuns @rusins lol Yh it’s an old sofa and I was careful haha. Would of used the table but we got a brand new fancy one.
Interesting, Yh either way I’ve got a trip to make to my mates who has a drill set up to sort this.
Grip tape is sandpaper and should not touch:
- couches
- sofas
- tables
- most hard floors
- automobile paint
- cell phone screens
- tablets
and furthermore, hands and jeans are also highly annoyed by it but it’s doable if you’re careful.
Carpet, concrete, wood blocks, and polyurethane longboard wheels are some of the things that griptape is good to set on.
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Nice looking repurposed Raptor board! It looks so awesome. Just curious on how you got rid of the wheelbite with the pneumatic wheels. I’m also looking to convert my broken Raptor board. I’m pretty interested in how you swapped out the enclosure/battery holder for the Raptor. Great job on it!
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Thanks man. I have yet to put life in it as I am waiting to get the cells to make the 12s6p battery.
With the wheel bit issue I am using TB XL Direct drive motors which are a bit wider than standard ones. This is the deck without any risers at the moment and there is clearance when it’s finished it will have 1/2 or 1” risers on it so there is absolutely no chance of that.
I do have the raptor 2 enclosure but this is too small if If you want an above average battery I have gone for a Mboards XL enclosure and will be putting a custom neoprene gasket in to act like a riser giving me about 60mm depth inside. I don’t think you can get a bigger enclosure on a raptor 2 deck as there is 5mm clearance on the wheel cut outs on all 4 corners. So any wider or longer and it will over hang into the wheel cut outs between the deck and enclosure.
The only thing that is Enertion about it is the deck all the rest is new. I have also purchased a Metr pro which will link to my LLT BMS which I will use to effectively fault report when the board has the last few bits and is complete.
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@Dyeezy just to add if you had standard TB DD I think there would be wheel bite however I reckon you would be fine up to 120mm.
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Interesting, thank you for the explanation. I really like the direct drive, but wayyy to expensive for me. I’m actually trying to do a belt drive with pneumatic wheels with the Raptor deck. I’m not sure if it’ll work with the wheelbite I’m getting. I guess your trucks’ geometry is different than my TB218 trucks. It is on 1/4 inch risers already. I’m thinking of trying half inch, but I don’t think that’s enough still.
I’m using the stock 10s4p battery, so I doubt i need to swap the enclosure. But if the room is too tight, I might resort to getting the bigger enclosure. The smart bms takes up some room.
The metr pro looks so helpful. Never knew about it, I might look into it, as I have a smart bms and a unity as well. Which one are you getting?
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I just got the standard metro pro model that connects via UART as I read the metro pro unity had some teething issues where it is newer. I’m working with 2x unity + and smart Bms is from https://www.lithiumbatterypcb.com/product/13s-48v-li-ion-battery-pcb-board-54-6v-lithium-bms-with-60a-discharge-current-for-electric-motorcycle-and-e-scooter-protection-2-2-3-2-2-2-2-2/
I do prefer the raptor 2 enclosure but was just too small for me.
Would defo look into the metr pro I feel it is essential for DIY. As well as your phone it even works with Apple Watch if you have one.
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@Dyeezy also just measured the distance between the 6” AT wheels at it’s exactly 10” so like you said either bigger risers or longer trucks with a bigger wheel base - I think that would be the best option as you will be more lower to the ground and in addition to a wider wheel base you will be more stable. Depending on where you are riding if you go for that option maybe go for DKP?
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Update**:** Batteries are in. I will be wrapping these with insulation over the weekend while I wait for the spot welder.
Last items to be delivered:
Custom gasket (once battery is finished)
Unity + one week away
Metro pro (anyone know how long these take to arrive in the UK?).
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Next 3D printed bits to add to the puzzle. Would of liked to be further down the line but a lot going on atm.
Last bits to do are soldering the internal bits together and order up the 20/25mm neoprene gasket.
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So I’ve been working hard to build the P42A 12S6P.
The battery is now 90% complete but just a little fit check and I’m pleased to say everything just about fits in!
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Dude! That thing is a BEAST! Looks awesome! Post a video of you shredding it.
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Thanks man, Yh still doing last bits on the battery and then it’s time to do the programming stage. This is my first DIY and first time using Vesc tool so wish me luck lol.
Finished assembling the voltmeter today as my parts weren’t a straight fit.
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In the last stages now, however it seems to be 1 step forward 2 steps back.
With the direct drives when adding the wheels I accidentally tightened them too much fortunately the guys on here helped me sort that out to prevent the motors grinding.
My next problem to solve is although so far on one of the motor detection seemed to be successful not all sides of the vescs seemed to show up on the Vesc tool I had 3 out of 4 once detection was complete. I feel this is an issue with the 4WD drive set up…
Anyway here’s a video of the one good motor detection!
Still need to order bolts nuts and inserts for the enclosure but it’s slowly going to plan…
Did you add speed washers behind the wheel (between motor and wheel NOT between wheel and nut, but 1 should be there) or did you just loosen the axle nut? With the speed washers you can actually tighten the axle nut down fully without binding he motor bearings.
I would try setting up each side individually as 2wd to make sure its all 100% then work on setting them up for awd
Also I’ve always set up my motors individually, maybe try that rather than doing all 4 at once. Sorry my experience is with the ubox not sure if the xenith can do 1 at a time?
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Thanks man, Yh need to get some speed washers do you know where’s best to get them and what ones I need.
I tried setting up in 2WD today and both unity’s seemed ok. I think they maybe getting confused with 4WD.
I can get all motors spinning in motor detection but only 3 out of 4 sides of the 2 unity’s are displayed on vesc tool when I do it.
Also once I move onto setting up my VX2 PRO remote it seems to mess with the unitys also. It changed the vesc ID from 60 to 61. Which I’m sure is not right as normally the vescs are 78 79 for one unity and 59 and 60 for the other unity.
Not sure if anyone else has had similar issues.