Well done!
I guess it won’t survive a crash or fall 
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Well, it shouldn’t hit the ground if I can put my hand down controllably. It should give me the ability to use slide pucks while using the throttle. Although the slide pucks will need a fairly tall riser.
In an uncontrolled fall the 3D prints will probably break, the throttle potentiometer maybe also, the rest of the electronics survive though. But I can get potentiometer replacements for like 6$ each including the trigger assembly so I will order 2-3 just in case, so if I break it it’s not a big deal
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Now it finally fits my finger comfortably at V6!!! I can’t wait to finish the assembly and take it for a ride tomorrow.
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It’s working!!! I can’t wait to go for a ride with it later today.
The glove is a little heavier than I thought it would be however. I would probably need a new top box iteration to fix that.
For that I would probably skip the USB charging as I suspect one charge would last me multiple months… And also stack the radio module below the main PCB. I am nearly out of filament though so it probably will stay like this for a while.
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You’re officially a cyborg now!
love it. 
i got this far… :D.
more of a hands down in disaster puck, than a use remote and puck down puck.
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The video doesn’t load. Maybe it’s in the iphone’s format?
I’ve actually been out for a short track session today.
I quickly found out that this is how I prefer to hold this remote 
Which means that on track I am still not really able to put down my hand for now. However, the remote is very comfortable. I need to work on weight a bit but even that’s not as bad as I initially thought
I could put down my hands by changing my grip though, which means that I might try burnouts one day 
Pretty hard to do with rear bindings though flexibility wise
It can still work as a hands down puck when I hold it like this, but that needs a puck riser that’s compensating for something 
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Super cool!
Have you thought at all about uncontrolled crashes? Any concern about breaking a finger or something, being that constrained?
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edited. how about now?
Still doesn’t work, but I realised that I could download the video so I managed to watch it. That looks okay, but if you end up needing to use it often the glove probably won’t last long
Which case is that? I really like how that looks, I would like to print one for my diy electronics summerboard
I actually haven’t thought about it, but all the fingers are constrainted at the same joint, so I don’t think it’s an issue? Other than the index finger maybe also constrained by the throttle, but the throttle can easily brake in a crash. It’s already held together by superglue 
hmm, i’m confused. wdym? without it i would fall and kill gloves. with it… i fall and save gloves…
it’s the “Tito Mod” by @Titoxd1000 i’m not sure if/where he published the mod tho.
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Don’t think I published it before, here are the files
Remote-4.32-Exp-v10.stl (849.2 KB)
lid-Remote-4.32-Exp-v9.stl (1.3 MB)
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Your thumb can touch the ground pretty easily or at least it looks like that from the video. Still much much better than no puck of course
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Thank you!
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Ok, i see what you’re saying. tx.
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Okay. So today I found out why this is a bad idea. On a normal trigger remote, you can move your finger out of the trigger. This is useful for jumping and oh shit moments.
I was out at my usual T-race spot, the weather was nice and I while I wasn’t confident pushing myself in the straights, I was pushing a little over 1G in the turns. Sidenote, the tires definitely feel much better in 20C ambient compared to 10C ambient. The highest surface temp I measured on them is 34C today
There’s a hole in the asphalt very close to my usual line, and I went over it with one of the wheels
This caused me to slip. Which on a normal remote would have meant that I can just completely let of the throttle by moving my finger out of it. On this remote I cannot move my finger out of it so I accidentally applied full brakes during an “oh shit moment”, which caused me to fall. I pulled both of my ankles a little bit, but the pain is completely gone after half an hour so I am fine. This could have easily ended worse. And the worst thing is: I am confident that I would have been able to ride this out on a regular remote.
I also ended up cracking the knuckle part, it didn’t fell apart but it’s close.
So I am scrapping this idea. It’s way too dangerous. I’ll look into something like Fess’ solution
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If anyone wants to print wideners for the MBS rockstar II pro XL hubs / rims here are the files, I just realised I still haven’t shared them yet:
The step file for 20mm if you want to make your own version
mbs_wide_20.step (75.4 KB)
The STLs from 10mm up to 40mm in 5mm increments
mbs_wide_10.stl (143.3 KB)
mbs_wide_15.stl (171.6 KB)
mbs_wide_20.stl (178.1 KB)
mbs_wide_25.stl (200.4 KB)
mbs_wide_30.stl (206.8 KB)
mbs_wide_35.stl (224.9 KB)
mbs_wide_40.stl (231.3 KB)
The minimum length this design supports is 10mm. Less is not possible, because the lip needs the extra material I added, otherwise it’s going to fail. However, that extra material needs to be chamfered, otherwise it’s going to cause wear on the inner tube. With this version I have personally not experienced extra wear on the tube. Different tire / tube / operating pressure combos might cause a different experience.
They are meant to be printed without supports in this orientation:
- If you suffer bed adhesion problems a brim is recommended.
- The design is meant to be a snug but not too tight press fit into both sides of the hub. This press fit makes sure that the hub’s interlocking feature still works, and helps prevent bent bolts by distributing the load. To achieve this fit, you will need to tweak for the filament’s shrinkage factor. In cura there’s a setting for that, but you can also just scale the whole thing up or down. You WILL need 2-3 tries to get this just right.
- Depending on the accuracy of your printer the holes for the bolts to pass through probably need to be drilled out with a 4mm drill bit. The design has specifies exactly 4mm, no tolerance.
- You need to source your M4 screws. The screws that come with the hub are M4x50 DIN912. To get the correct screw length for the front wheel, just add the width of the widener to this number. For the rear, on BN-AT drives you need to add an extra 10mm. Maybe 5mm extra is also enough, I haven’t tested that yet. So for example, I use the 20mm wideners, on the front I have 70mm screws, on the rear with the BN gear drive I have 80mm screws. Note: you don’t want these screws to bend under any circumstance. Always get the highest grade available, the wider you go the truer this gets. Stainless probably isn’t going to cut it, but you are welcome to test.
- Crappy PLA survived me and I ride pretty hard. PETG is probably the better choice though. Print on the higher end of the filament’s temperature spectrum.
Only the 20mm version is tested at this point. They are very robust if printed well.
This was the “failure” mode for me:
This happened during a pretty serious crash, which messed up the bearing seat in the hub and deformed the lip too. So I think if you print them well they can take more beating than the hub itself.
Important note:
The hubs have sideset bearings by standard. Meaning, that the load on the bearings is not centered! This normally isn’t in issue if you use the hub as intended, however if you widen it even more, this might lead to increased wear on the bearings and the bearing seats. Check your bearings regularly! The wider you go, the faster bearings will wear out. I am going to try 3001 double row angular bearings in the hubs soon, those should take the extra load much better. I’ll keep you all updated how that goes. Those however take up more axle space.
Legal stuff:
Use this at your own risk. I do not take any responsibility for it.
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Regarding the glove: this is what I came up with. I removed the bottom battery holder of the original casing, and I put a 21700 right into the grip. It fits perfectly.
Then I made a special shape puck riser which lets me hold the remote. It doesn’t have a lot of velcro contact, so I don’t know if I should trust this enough to be deliberately putting my hand down. However it would certainly help when I accidentally put my hand down.
Also yes, that remote is entirely held together by hot glue
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rip
What happened:
I set a speed limit in metr which basically sets an erpm limit on the esc. This is the first time on this board that I set a speed limit by metr, I did change other settings with metr though without any issues.
Then I lightly pressed the throttle unloaded. The motor accelerated up to the set erpm limit very suddenly - quicker than how much I was pushing the throttle that’s for sure. When the motor reached the erpm limit there was a click, kinda when the motor gets a bad signal from the esc. That’s when I noticed that smoke is coming out from the box. I opened it and removed / disconnected the battery asap.
I’ll send makerx a pm shortly regarding this
edit: pm sent. let’s see what happens next
1 Like