Probably didn’t help you’ve been running it at it’s very limit of voltage and amps man.
It’s still very strange though that it failed while spinning with the tyres in the air. Especially as there shouldn’t have been much current flowing through unloaded with lightly throttle and low duty cycle…
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Was your battery at or near full charge?
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It was somewhere around 85v
Odd behavior for sure with the RPM ramping up like that after setting a speed limit.
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The rpm definitely ramped up way too suddenly. I pressed the throttle very lightly and it was at the speed limit in an instant
It is recommended to limit the maximum speed by reducing the duty cycle.
There seems to be a bit of a problem with VESC’s ERMP limiting algorithm, where the RPM changes abruptly. Especially at high RPMs.
I know, but I did it this way on multiple ESCs without issues so far. I also know other people who limit erpm for reverse in full current mode. I don’t see how that’s any different
Same battery voltage and motor KV?
I think that could have been the case.
But there was also some weirdness going on with the throttle a second before it blew. edit: the rpm ramped up much faster than how much i was pushing the throttle
same kv and gearing limited to the same speed. Lower voltage but that should only move this into a lower duty cycle range. same erpm
it was limited to 20 km/h when the board is geared around over 100km/h, should have been around 20k erpm
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It is still recommended to use a low KV motor, or reduce the duty cycle to reduce the speed.
PM you to solve this issue.
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I’m getting a replacement 
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The replacement ESC has arrived, I can’t wait to resurrect this board!
Tito’s trucks should be here this week too!
Not sure if I have the time this week to build it all out though
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@Titoxd1000 Dualities are in! I am very hyped to get them setup and see how they ride.
I had to rearrange the budget a little bit though so I am still going to be on wobbly rims probably until early July.
And my July and August salaries are going to be used for converting this to 4wd. I really need strong front brakes. Hopefully that’ll be finished for the race in Montrevel, end of August.
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The trucks seem to have gotten really good feedback excited to hear your thoughts as well.
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Excited to see how you feel about them, considering you race and are switching from channels
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I am very excited, I imagine there will be a huge difference in stability. The BN310s really weren’t all that stable once setup as turny as I like them.
I’ll definitely put my feedback about them in this thread once I have them setup and start tuning them. And a review in Tito’s thread as well after I got them tuned to my liking.
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Today I mounted the rear truck (without bushings yet) and setup the motor position in the gear drives
I put an 8mm spacer between the hanger and the gear down clamp, so the gear drives are spaced out by 8mm on each side. Still plenty of contact area around the hanger though. With the stock lean stopper good amount of clearance between the pivot arm and the motor with this spacer. I am using the 300mm hanger with 6495 motors and a 3mm spacer between the gear drive and the motor (effectively 6498 from clearance perspective).
I managed to set my motors higher compared to the bn channels
They are finally above axle height!!!
Max lean looks good. Actually I ended up removing the 3d printed lean stopper, and stacking 0.5mm washers below the screws until I maxed out my motor clearance with this motor position. This added probably around 1.5° extra lean compared to the stock setup (25°), so really just a tiny bit. Hopefully I can get away with this amount of extra lean while using chubbies. Will see. I like to lean super deep.
And the axle is verrry close to the deck in height. That alone should make for a decent amount improvement in ride feel compared to the bn channels where I was forced to ruin the stock ride height by using risers in order to get enough lean before the hanger hit the deck.
Tomorrow I plan to confirm if the backlash is still good after changing the clamps from the 20x20 to 22x22, loctite all bolts in the gear drive, drill a kingpin access hole through the deck to make bushing swaps less inconvenient, and mount the front the truck too.
I will start with 92.5A APS bushings all around, tall barrels front, tall chubbies rear, and tweak from there. Keeping the stock 30/15 angles for now
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I finished the gear drives.
I’ve also been thinking about how to make the double row angular bearings fit (3001, 28x12x12).
This is how much axle space I have. There’s an 8mm spacer between the hanger and the gear drive, so that shortens the axle a bit.
If I get rid of the 8mm spacer that’s on the axle between the gear drive and the bearings, that should give me the exact amount of axle space that I need for the double row angulars. This means that the rim is going to get closer to the gear drive by 4mm. I need to get the wheel adapter nubs closer to the rim by 4mm.
I have exactly 4mm of unused thread right there.
This means that I’ll have to print 34 mm wideners. Which is the perfect length anyways for the 90mm M4 bolts that I have.
I’ll also need to put a probably 1mm speedring between the gear drive and the wheel bearing. The nylock engagement is just barely, but still perfect on the thread. The nylock goes down 3mm deep in the nut. 2mm nylock engagement should still be enough, right?
Swapping the outer bearings to the angulars is not a necessity. Those doesn’t seem to wear out quick. It’s the inner ones that are problematic. But if I can afford the axle space, why not.
(This angular bearing experiment will have to wait a bit though. For now I’m just assembling it with the 6001 regular bearings.)
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