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Well I’d need to triple my ball size so that I don’t have to stop at 20 mph! 
Jokes aside, I really don’t feel comfortable doing 0- whatever that is more than 20. But coming out of a corner into a straight on track I do max out the 13kW I have right now, full throttling.
And my philosophy is if I can hit full throttle it’s not enough power 
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where did you get the warming pads? thanks
Got them on amazon, but you’ll have significantly better prices ordering from aliexpress. Search for “silicone heating pad”
great ! i want to use it for warming my lipo , but 1.6A per pad not sure its what i need
I wouldn’t recommend them for warming lipo batteries, there’s no temperature control, it’s way too risky.
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I just remade the original post to give an overview readable in 10-15 minutes of what happened during the year, as BOTY is coming up soon. It’s worth a read, especially if you didn’t keep up to date during the year - so you can mostly catch up without reading nearly 500 posts.
Huge thanks to @tuckjohn for nominating this board for BOTY 
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This is awesome man. Cool to see you moving that way.
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Do share moar plz
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So here are the big changes that I am planning for 2025.
Experimenting with actual gokart race tires in an actual gokart (albeit front wheel) size is the main driving force in order to make another huge makeover and get to phase 4 of the build. Along with being interested in one feature the new Stooge lineup brings to the table.
But first, phase 3.5
This is a necessary step in getting everything ready for phase 4. The plan is to run phase 3.5 at esk8con.
I’ll be swapping to a new set of 240mm hangers, the current set of trucks will end up on JumpBro. They will be paired with Stooge open gears - 78T wheel spur, which means the motors will clear the pivot arm enabling them to go right up against each other. And I’ll be running Tito’s shortest mounts, that have an actual clamp design - no grubs screws. I am not a fan of grub screw mounts.
This new setup also frees up some space on the axle which is desperately needed. I plan a 4mm gap between the 6395 motors in the rear. Why make this change you may ask? Well, a narrower setup is ideal for multiple reasons. It reacts quicker under your feet, which is why downhill racers run them, and they are inherently stronger due to a smaller lever arm.
The extra usable axle space is needed to run @Ac53n’s hubs with more bearings than standard configuration. The BN drives steal some axle space which would be better used actually supporting the wheel. I’m also acquiring a set of BRP tires at 7x3" - and inch taller than standard to satisfy my deep lean requirements at the current ride height. The bearing config I plan to run from hanger to nut is the following for BRPs: double row angular → regular bearing → 22mm MBS spacer → regular bearing → nut. The innermost bearing sticks out of the hub, and it centers the spur gear, kinda acts as it’s support bearing.
And I’ve gotta figure out something about my battery situation. As things are shaping up now, and it looks like I’m flying in early anyways, it might make most sense to build a battery there… As making the proper flight pack is a ton of work and I’d rather work to get money so that everything else can be covered comfortably.
This concludes phase 3.5. No actual build pictures until esk8con though.
Phase 4
Now, before you get too excited you won’t see much about this other than renders until maybe April or May. There’s just simply too much work, time, and money required to make things work, no chance I can get it done sooner. I am hoping to finish for the Pitland season start in May, but since this is parallel to writing my bachelor thesis and working to feed myself with food and the board with shiny parts… No guarantees it’s getting finished in time.
The gokart rim mounts to an adapter that was also designed by @Ac53n. Then this assembly mounts onto the BRP hub just like a BRP tire would - and it’s indexed properly making sure things stay concentric.
When running the gokart rims, I can choose to loose 1mm of nylock engagement in order to run double normal sized bearings on the outside of the hub (do thinner nylock nuts exist?), or have full engagement and remove the bearing already in and change it for a double row angular bearing. The extra bearings offer a wider total spread and more strength, both for the BRP tires and for the gokart wheels.
The gokart tires will probably negate the effect of narrower trucks, adding back the original total width, another reason why going narrower was a good choice.
Why do I need extra strength? On the current setup, which I would already consider extreme, they hold up great. Well, the new wheels are going to be so gigantic that I might as well beef everything up. They are quite offset, super wide, super tall.
And regarding the size of the wheels, there are many considerations to be made. Firstly, gearing. Open gear allows me to go to 78:10, so a 7.8 maximum ratio compared to the current 5.2. I haven’t decided yet if I’ll be going to 10 or 11T for the gokart tires, 11T is more durable. Will see if I need the torque or the durability more. Swapping to 16 or 18T pinions means I can run the BRPs at optimal gearing also.
Which exact tire I am going to run is not set in stone yet, but I was thinking of trying the Mitas 10x3.60 tires in their “SRB” named soft race compound - these are the smallest tires I could find that were meant to run on actual, full size, race gokarts.
Secondly, ride height. No getting around the fact that they are 10" tires…
And this brings us the next huge change of phase 4 - an adjustable ride height dropped steel chassis below the deck. The new Stooge lineup has its standing platform below the axle. This generates a power steering like effect, as Moe refers to it on the WTF: Negative Lateral G Pushback.
The V6 (yep you read that right) is going to rock a standing platform about 24mm below the axle, as stated by Moe recently.
If I drop the ride height of 10" tires by 24mm, I’d end up with the deck at close to the same distance from the ground as it is now on the 9x3.5" (which are closer to 210mm in reality).
But - this wouldn’t work on the 7" BRPs, I would be scraping the belly while turning on every corner. So I need adjustability. I’d also need 6-6.5" compatibility, as some of our indoor tracks seem to work best on very specific tires. Unless I can prove the 7" or 10" tires on those tracks, I need the ability to run as small as 6" from time to time - that’s already belly scraping territory in phase 3.
While we’re at it, I also need to stiffen up the deck and have space for a small amount of undermounted batteries in the middle - I’ve decided that maybe I don’t want to be the first one who extensively tests what happens if you charge a tabless cell at 100A near full charge, so now I am planning a much more sensible pack - from a certain point of view. So the plan is no longer a 20S3P flight pack to be the sole battery that the board can run on.
Haven’t decided on the final configuration, but thinking about something like a 16S5P on top with 4S5P below. Need to check how much space I’d have below. But 5P at 60A per cell is way more reasonable for total power that I’m not going to be drawing anyways. That being about 22kW.
And the ends of the deck need to be chopped so that the bracket truck mount setup adds only the smallest possible amount of extra wheelbase.
Now from this point, nothing is close to finalized, it’s just my ideas without being feasibility checked.
So why not make the chopped deck as the standing platform sit over a full steel frame in a similar layout to how the Superspine is built… Except, that I want the battery under in the middle and be protected, so let’s make two triangular channels run the whole length on each side. A plate can bolt to them to cover up the batteries in the middle. The two triangular channels would be folded from sheet metal and welded shut. There would be holes on them where they can be bolted to the deck. The metal would extend and form the deck side of the adjustable ride height truck mount, with maybe some extra “ribs” that fold onto it and get welded together for extra strength.
Then another sheet metal part with ribs forms the other part of the bracket, that can slide vertically up and down, and be locked into position let’s say every 12mm by a couple heavy duty bolts. Giving the following adjustment options: 0mm sub axle, 12mm sub axle, 24mm sub axle, 36mm sub axle, perhaps also 48mm sub axle if I want to try absolutely crazy stuff - which seems to be the theme of Phase 4 anyways At this point getting the plate 2cm longer in one direction and cutting two more holes ain’t gonna add cost and complexity anyways.
It’ll probably be February or March when I start modelling the subframe in CAD. I have very little experience modelling complex sheet metal stuff, I’d need to look things up and learn new stuff, only getting started on this after the current exam period is over.
Phase 5
This would probably be the final phase (as at the moment I have no idea how I could get any crazier than phase 4 already is shaping up to be) it’s just going to be software related. Adding proper torque vectoring that is. The earliest start of this project would be the summer.
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7” BRP tires??(?….)
If you want to build a pack over here and keep it as your USA pack, I’d be happy to hold onto it for you. I expect I’d be at most/any race events you’d be coming over here for, so should be easy logistically for future races
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They’re on the bishop site as an option. I think they’re a drag slick though so I’m guessing it’s the same size hub with thicker foam. Not sure how well they would handle lateral force.
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I was thinking of buying from here, they are normal BRP tires, not the drag slicks. Vik Schmidt has had good experiences with tires from this source, but haven’t tried 7".
Same 405 compound as the softer version Stooge sells.
That said - 7" are completely untested for esk8, other than the knobby ones.
Sounds good, appreciate the offer! I’ll send you a PM
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Yeah that’s a lot of foam, looks like the same hub as the 6". They soften up a lot once they get up to temp/had a few cycles through them so I’d be wary.
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it’s just taller foam, which is already super soft. Considering these are made for 50kg ish RC cars I’d be surprised if they handle your lateral loads. Could be an expensive experiment.
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Gotcha. Well, worst case I can use some risers and run 6", would realllly prefer 7" if I can get it working well though.
I’ve asked the shop which stiffness host they use. Will also send Moe a message tomorrow whether he is willing to share or not. If we aren’t using the stiffest one yet maybe 7" can work if I go up in stiffness. I have 5 different options for the foam when ordering direct from bishop.
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BRP update - the RC shop uses the “X firm” option for the foam, which is actually the middle option for firmness. I’m gonna ask Moe next.
But looking like I probably need to buy direct from bishop if I want 7".
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If you manage to setup a small group buy of the 7" ones, i may be interested lol. I’m realizing that if i want to run my deck at axle height, i need some pretty large wheels to clear the enclosure with any reasonable amount
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