I’ve been battling with ABS overcurrent faults myself. Setting to 160A is too low for me it seems… every time it happens that high pitched WEEEEEEEE sound happens, it’s scary, got thrown out of my bindings after thinking my cap bank might have solved it- it didn’t… and I think it’s the same reason as yours. It’s been happening exclusively on my MTB, the cap bank compensates for the long battery wires so it’s not that… It only happens on jarring terrain so I figured it must be something else and did some digging…
I can’t tell if it’s solved completely but I’ve read elsewhere that the FOC speed tracker PID loop could be causing the current to overshoot. First, I reduced my motor amps from 110 down to 100 which is kind of a bummer but I have a feeling it’s likely that alone has solved it.
next other few things I tried was to loosen my ramp up time from 0.25s to 0.45-0.5s so the controller has more time to compensate and hopefully not overshoot. Black box to me but I checked the high current sensing button, and increased the observer gain at minimum duty from 5% to 25%.
Finally, back to the speed tracker Ki and Kp. Enable realtime data, disable your remote, and test to see using the set RPM buttons watching the graph to see how high your current spikes. I found motor amps and duty cycle overshooting the target by 3-4x every time with the default values. Increasing Ki, doubling it to be specific, seems to have reduced that overshoot in duty cycle to never overshoots and lands right on target, while motor amps overshoot a tad still, but only by maybe 1.5x the target as opposed to 3-4x, and only a third of the time does it overshoot at all… usually the motor amps land exactly where they end up settling at now.
I have a strong feeling the rough terrain is jarring the speed tracker, and the default values for the speed tracker PID could be further tuned so that the vesc doesn’t overshoot the current beyond our set ABS max when we are jostling around under load. I’d love to figure out a test that might work better than setting RPM… it seems good enough though as it seems to set RPM instantly and clearly shows amps and duty cycle way overshooting the target. I plan on messing with these values further in the future as it’s clearly doing something to reduce/eliminate overshoot in current when making immediate changes to RPM similar to when on bounchy terrain.
I’ve also upped my ABS max to 169A.
I’d like to test everything how it was when I got thrown off, and just see if tuning the speed tracker did anything while on the board, but honestly at this point I don’t want to risk it just to be able to run 10 more motor amps per motor. After making all these changes I didn’t get any faults on an 8 mile ride with heavy loads, tons of rough terrain, jumps, etc… whereas without these changes I got tossed at the 1.5 mile mark due to the fault hitting while accelerating in some bumpy grass.