i don’t crank down tho
i like to think i’m not abusing my bushings, and never crank to the point tjat it bulges even a bit 
Fuck it abuse your bushings, that’s what they’re there for.
Bushings are cheap, the experience isn’t.
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my wallet would say otherwise 
probably spent at least $240 on bushings this year and most aren’t even being used
would spend more but i ran out of money and RT ran out of stock
but also, the characteristics of the bushings aren’t as good when cranked cranked cranked[insert dirty analogy]
I find a slight bulge is my sweet spot. Gives good stability in general but still lets me crank out some deep carves.
Not sure how I’d feel about having no bulge.
if your bulging , your bushing duro is too soft
it should really only be until it’s engaged, or have some slight preload, never bulging
I’ve got a slight bulging preload.
Idfk I’ve used harder duros and had no bulging, but I found them to not be as stable.
me neither
i’m just as clueless 
could also be down to the quality and/or type of formula of the bushings
and if course the shape,
Riding out speed wobbles with loose trucks on a ride a few weeks ago
Stock caliber 44 bushings because I don’t know what bushings to use
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i wish i had footage of me riding off wobbles
one side gave out so i got massive torque steer
it grew and grew and as i was rdiing it off i almost had to use the other side of the road (this is no traffic btw)
almost got so bad i would’ve caught my rite tires and flipped going 30 strapped to my board
rode it off tho 
wasn’t so lucky the second time
holy shit deja vu but slightly different. swear i was messaging about bushings while someone was watching a movie or video, or something like that twixe before
i know for a fact i was talking about bushings another time in this situation
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Can barely even notice the speed wobble! Nice control. Impressive on stock bushings (I’ve never trusted stock bushings, except on BN trucks)
Just saw a battery swap in a endurance competition…also saw the slowest motherfuckers that shouldn’t be working a pit 🤦 god that was painful to watch
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I thought the removal went very quickly considering that they have to safe the packs first. Installing the new packs was a lot slower though, definitely room for improvement.
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Get an Evo build going if possible (or simply add adjustable baseplates to current build). I’ve been riding mine with non-ideal 88A bushings while I wait on build necessities, and it’s still really stable and inspires confidence. Split angles are the real deal.
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I’m thinking about buying a laboratory power supply. I don’t have a particular use case for it. It just seems as a handy thing to have around. I imagine I’ll mostly use it for charging batteries, powering VESC when bench testing and generally for tinkering with electronics. I don’t think I’ll use it very often so I prefer staying on budget. Features I’d like:
- 60V+
- 5A+
- CC/CV mode (be able to set both current and voltage limit at the same time)
- button for enabling/disabling output
I looked at Topshak NPS605W, which is very cheap and has decent reviews. It doesn’t have the CC/CV mode and the output enable/disable though.
I also looked at Riden (Ruiden?) RD60xx power supplies, which would probably check all the boxes but would come close to $200, which is a little more than I was looking to spend.
Any recommendations? Cheers!
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I’ve been pretty happy with this Kungber but it doesn’t have an output enable/disable button. Typical inexpensive China PSU output noise levels and only goes up to about 58.5V but has held up to continuous use near its max ratings for days at a time.
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Some bushings are cheap.
What skate is that?
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Single 6374 Tesseract on caguamas. Had a crooked magnet at the time so the motor sounds noisy
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Love it
1 Like