stormcore 1.0
reacher 6395 175kv
20s7p → now 14s10p
newbee 4gs & rim & tires
hypertrucks for nazare
esc box: 3d servisas
rammboard deck & enclosure.
remote vx4
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Jbs bms : i think the same one linked above: Huge aliexpress link to smatr bms
There is also a lower charge only bme based off the …. Gaaaaaa mobile formating means im typing blind, will link in following reply
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Jet bms - a different spin on the zbms. Had one in hand and it seemed good but my use case changed and i sold it before actually using it.
Thank you for the link! Mobile really is such a pain in the butt. 
I believe that’s the same one I ended up picking up from LithiumBatteryPcb.
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Oooohhh, parts are starting to roll in! MBoards always comes through with the fast shipping. 
Unfortunately, the Radium motors are going to take a little while. Hopefully the batteries show up soon so I can start prepping.
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I’m curious if anyone here has experience with this and can offer some input.
My enclosure is carbon fiber, and from what I understand, I’ll need to take extra precautions beyond standard fish paper and heat shrink. I remember someone mentioning that the inside of a CF enclosure should be fully lined with fish paper, and possibly even coated with a thin epoxy layer for additional insulation. That’s something I was planning to explore as I started the build.
However, after dry fitting the cells in the enclosure, I can already tell it’s going to be an extremely tight fit. Now I’m concerned about how much additional material I’ll realistically be able to add inside without running out of space.
Has anyone here worked with a carbon fiber enclosure before? How did you handle insulation, and would you recommend lining or sealing the interior? I’d really appreciate any advice.
I’d just make sure the pack itself is fully fishpaper wrapped, then glue it into the enclosure once complete, paying special attention to potential rub spots
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@Pecos reccomended using a neutral cure silicone to adhere the battery to the enclosure. You don’t rl need that much, couple lines at the bottom should be good enough to keep it in place.
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I would just add that there should be fishpaper between the enclosure and anything carrying electricity, not just the cells. Wires and and other circuit boards (like a BMS that doesn’t have a case). The nuclear option is to use fiberglass and epoxy to cover the inside of the enclosure, but that’s a higher effort alternative.
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It appears @Adstars was one step ahead here. It still can’t hurt to glue the battery in.
I’d refrain from gluing the underside of the battery and use a thin sheet of EVA foam there instead, as well as EVA on top of the battery to create a snug up/down situation, then use glue in potential rubbing areas on the sides/corners of the battery.
please make sure that anywhere you glue is sufficiently covered with shrink wrap… the shrink wrap should be treated as a sacrificial layer, so that should the battery ever need to be removed, you carefully slice open the wrap and remove the battery from that, leaving the wrap glued into the enclosure.
The glue should act more as a locked in spacer than an actual adhesive in my opinion.
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This is the way, the silicone is so nice because it both attaches it and is a great spacer - not too rigid, not too flexible. Absolutely a horror to remove so the shrink is a must for long term maintenance. I have yet to have the silicone adhesive fail and let the cells or pack rattle and get damaged - i have found poorly done shrink or repairs that didn’t also repair and replaced the shrink and adhesive then fail later as the pack or group then gets a little freedom to shift and gets wear damage.
A very sharp chisel does a good job of removing the old silicone when it does come time to re do stuff - after removing the pack from the sacrificial shrink
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@glyphiks @MichaelWA @Flyboy @Pecos
Thank you for the tips, guys! I honestly feel so much better knowing they laid fiberglass on the inside.
I’m curious though — would you still run silicone considering how tight these cells fit? After just loosely placing them in the enclosure, I legitimately thought there was zero chance they would fit. I really had to force them in there… and they’re very difficult to get out afterward.
I’ll definitely run some thin foam on the bottom of the enclosure and on the top against the deck. But side-to-side movement seems like it would be almost impossible, even without silicone.
If it’s that tight i’d be very concerned about the shoulders of the cans in the corners. I’d look at removing the fish paper from the sides of the middle group to get just that tiny bit more space, and definitely still be gluing.
the shoulders of the cans will very likely wear through over time with vibrations if they are touching in the corners
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Don’t you think that, considering the rubbing concern, I should focus more on adding extra fish paper there? Or are you saying it wouldn’t really rub if everything is glued?
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You know what… I’m really starting to understand why these things have such high price tags from builders. This has been SO much work.
I just finished welding my last group and accidentally knocked one of them onto the floor…. UGHHHHH.
It might’ve been fine, but I’m not willing to risk it.
Good thing I always grab an extra group or two of cells.
If it’s as tight as you say it is, no amount of fishpaper will help IMO, better off trying to create a gap and fill it with glue
Alright, I think I’m catching on now! 
Would you recommend a specific glue for this?
I would add some fish paper to the enclosure if possible
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