WORK IN PROGRESS ////// NOT DONE. I’ve only put maybe an hour or two into this thread. Will be updating it with more parts and guides, 3d print files, and parts alternatives for those that may be out of stock or hard to come by.
Hello all! This is a serious thread dedicated to my board and others like it, known as NGK, or No Gate Keeping.
As the name implies, I want this to be a board that others can copy or take inspiration from in hopes of pushing this hobby forward faster and making racing more practical for people who don’t have around 2k to spend on just a chassis alone. While still not cheap, this raceboard is highly customizable to suit people’s needs. As developments are made by me and others, I will update the parts list and include files for 3d printing that people may want to implement
Project NGK members are encouraged to reply to this thread and forever claim their number and be a part of hopefully something great. Currently we have:
08 - @HAIRYMANJACK (Me :))
03 - @R2trivv
This project also highly encourages people to post their findings, pushing us all forward in hopes of improving esk8 racing as a whole.
One more thing, Amazon links here are affiliate links; they do help me, however small the amount is, and I would greatly appreciate their use.
Here we go!
Parts list:
Get a good set of tools for your raceboard; crappy tools or using the wrong tools are why shit falls apart or gets stripped. A few of the basics:
(Some of these are not the best of the best I know, but will be better than the 2$ Amazon special. If you have better cost-effective tool suggestions, please message me. I am happy to include them!)
More to come, ARIGHT BOARD PARTS!!
Deck - Haero E-Specific Bro 96 Mountainboard Deck (I personally use the Apex collab, and that was shipped to @r2trivv when he ordered this, so they may be shipped interchangeably. They are the same deck, just a different skin.
Grip Tape - I use the big vicious squares as I find those easiest to cut out.
Binding - Can’t go wrong with @MBS F5 Binding. One thing, I use the opposite side for my foot (Regular for goofy stance and vice versa), it feels better for me on this deck. I also mount the nose side of the binding to the truck pattern as seen in the assembly section.
M6x10mm screw for binding into the deck. (Deck comes with pre-installed inserts)
Battery Box - This leaves some room for creativity. See the assembly section for more details.
Foam - For battery box. The pre-installed foam isn’t rigid enough for my liking.
Screws - For battery box. I recommend finding some oversized washers as well to support the box.
Wiring - 8 awg silicone wire. The good stuff. Highly recommend using a 70 to 80-watt iron.
Junction Box - for the esc. I like this sizing, fits MakerX 2G300 with some dremmeling to the top, you can make your own solution too if you’d like.
The sizing is being wack on the link, choose the 7.9" x 4.7" x 2.95"in one.
Tinned Copper Lugs - For motors and battery wiring
Crimper - Hydraulic crimp for said lugs. MAKE SURE YOU USE THE RIGHT SIZE AND MAKE SURE WIRES ARE TIGHT.
VESC - Makerx 2G300, honestly, the standard now for high-power boards with a price that’s unbeatable.
3-Link Trucks @MoeStooge PLS RESTOCK THE LONG RODS. 30MM Mounts for Inrunners. Highly recommend using 85a/90a APS Combo for bushings with some variant of cup washer. I like the old ones that Moe used to make himself, milling out some of the bushing nut. Others do exist, though.
3-Link Extensions - By MBoards
Hoyt Puck - my go to remote. Have yet to have an issue so long that I’m not throwing it around with the occasional floor meetings
8x M5x25mm Cap Head Bolts for mounting 3-Link Trucks to Extensions
M5x35mm Hex Bolts for Truck Assembly to Deck
M5 Nylock Nuts
Motors - Hobbywing 56118 650kv X2
Sensor Adapter for Motor X2 - NEED TO CRIMP OR SOLDER JST-PH 2mm CONNECTOR TO WORK WITH G300
JST-PH Crimp Kit - I bought this exact one. Wish I had done this sooner.
11t Mod 1.5 8mm Bore Pinion - For motors, recommend this gearing 11/78.
Spur Gears 78t Mod 1.5 - Can be mounted to standard esk8 hubs with Linn adapter or to BRP hubs for BRP Tires.
Batteries - Once again, creative freedom, I highly recommend keeping it light. This is a raceboard, not a cruiser. To put it bluntly, you’ll need to pick a struggle in whether you want a board that feels heavy and gets a lot of range, or a board that has very little range but feels snappy and responsive on the track, leading to better times. I use 4 of these wired in series for 16s1p
You can also do a 2p of this, but once again, weight.
If you must run 21700, I would recommend a 3p pack to compensate for the voltage sag that 21700 cells have.
You can also run a BMS for Lipos. A guide for that will be included here in the future!
ASSEMBLY:
