"Plan B" | Landyachtz Evo Falcon 40" | 13s5p | TB 6380 170kv | TB 110 | Unity

I decided to repurpose my first build after I make a backup/2nd board since my deck is much too flexy for speed and it is just a bit not the right feeling for me, and I want an actual mtb and an actual street board, what I should’ve done from the start. Make two boards 1 mtb 1 street.

Geared for ~35mph loaded. Hopefully the belts don’t slip any. Originally figured I should go with a gear drive, but couldn’t decide on which I wanted. Few reasons for this: 13s build, gearing, wheel options, compatibility. Fatboy urethane v4 drive make sense, but need to buy extra baseplates (their adjustable base plates were my choice (+$150 on the already $565 coming to over $700), then Avio MK2 herringbone drive, mainly clearance made me weary on this one, but price too. (Drive and everything would be nearly $900 for everything needed (for use with TB110s)), now taking me to belt as a choice ($290 for non-CNC trucks system. $390 for CNC trucks system (no belts)). This makes a lot more sense considering I can’t think of a cheaper setup to fit 6380s both in same direction. Price here makes more sense (May be less suiting but is still high quality enough for sure, but way cheaper.) My existing experience with gear drives (bad experiences) also push me to belt drive,I will be missing the “instant” torque.

It would make more sense to use 190kv and use a 15:44 ratio over 170kv 16:42 but I already have the 170kvs :frowning_face: It would make even more sense to use a gear drive considering it will be 13s the amount of torque will be insane considering it is geared for 35, using belts I hope there is no slippage. Decent but not too fast. I don’t want to ever hit 40. Plus I really like torque. Pull the throttle and zoom you go, if it were geared lower I would think if I did a pull it would reach top speed in a second which is no fun, what is more fun is reaching a higher speed at a fast pace, than a much slower speed at a super fast pace.

Plans:

Deck: Landyachtz evo falcon 40" ($150) (Getting Senderized +$200-$300 (I hope))

Battery: 13s5p 30Q (say at $3.5 a cell rough cost of $227) (Needs welding and wiring)

ESC: 2x Focboxes v1.6 ($260 @Ace)

Enclosure: @eBoosted Evo Falcon enclosure ($125 + $20 + $15 = $160)

Motors: 2x TB 6380 170kv ($270)

Drive setup: TB 110 Blues ($110), TB 218 Trucks ($65), 3dservisas 42t wheel pulleys ($88), TB 16t motor pulleys ($33), TB Mounts ($120), Extra crossbar ($35), Belts ($32) ~ $496

*Extras: Metr pro ($60)

Misc: 13s BMS ($20), 13s Charger ($50)

Rough cost – $1,700+ (minus senderization +$200-$300)

12/31 - Just ordered most of my drivetrain parts from TB and the 3dservisas pulley. Just the metr pro left (later on). From here it is mainly just waiting for my enclosure then sending it off to Tim with the deck. Then more waiting. Welding 12 out of 13 P groups together while deck is being skinned, and finishing battery off when I get my deck back. Then the board will be done. Sounds simple but I know it will end up much more hard than it needs to be.

1/22 - Everything is basically here, been busy so haven’t shipped my deck out yet, so gonna be awhile. Also still need to order some nickel strip. As well as some set screws for the TB pulleys, cus I am using a shortened shaft. And some proper front truck axle spacers instead of using 10 copper washers. Forgot to order deck hardware and messed up a bearing so gonna have to order new ones.

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“Plan B”

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This is gonna be a sick build! I’m glad I could help!

Unfortunately the Tb cnc trucks have standard length axles and wont work with the 3d 3dservisas pulleys until dexter comes out with longer axles

Ah damn. Thanks, was going to double check that but no need now. Regular TB trucks it is. $100 cheaper anyway. Just wanted blue trucks lol. Not sure what other trucks fit 2x 6380 in same direction.

Have you seen these?

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I’ve got a new set of TB110’s in blue with bearings (Abec 9) if you need a set. $100 shipped.

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Don’t think TB mounts will work with them. Their mounts are cheaper, I guess Idlers are a plus, but no color and square design :frowning: Plus I don’t have caliber baseplates lying around.

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Everything I have so far. Enclosure, charger, and BMS are on it’s way. All that is left part wise is the whole drivetrain. Ordering it soon just need to figure out good belt size, and the metr pro later on when my board is near completion.

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This is all I could find on setting motor/batt settings. Assuming 80a motor max will do fine as it will only really ever reach those amps on hard acceleration for a short burst.

Though this note on the site says here regarding batt max:

Please note: Batt max shouldn’t exceed 30a / Batt min, shouldn’t be less than -15A (recommended)

If anyone reads this who use OG focboxes, have you run battery max over between 60a and 100a total? Knowing they say to not exceed 30a, not sure if I should run 60a total/30a each, Or 100a total/50a each. (13s5p Battery outputs 100a.) Pretty sure though 60a total would do the job though.

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Ran mine at 40 batt amps per esc for ages on a street board, then ran em again at 30 on emtb for a while and blew one up.

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how did you blow it?

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IDK. one day during a ride I got a DRV error whenever i pull the throttle and it worked no more.

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Also broke one DRV at I think 50 amps at a stop when throttling and making it cog.

Well I guess I will just put it 60a/-20a total and limit erpm to 60k and hope for the best that nothing blows, then all I worry about is breaking down a hill at full charge. That is kinda surprising that 2 just randomly died.

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The focbox got there fast!

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So this enclosure is badass. Can’t wait to see how it looks in carbon fiber. And can’t wait to see how it turns out as a whole. Gonna be sick. 1/13th of this battery gonna be weird to wire up. Time to send it to get senderized. Waiting on bms, charger, drive train stuff and that is all on the main parts isle. Gotta order battery supplies and that will be it, I hope.

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that dam split p group on the top caught me out first battery build - I had a cold solder on the s group connect and it pop’ed off and blew my 1st BMS

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Much quality, bad assmebly, stuff kept misaligning when was tighening, not applied loctite yet since it was already on the screws, will be doing it anyway when the rest is nearing completion. Not sure if it is properly aligned yet but I’ll worry about it later

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Any updates? Would like to know how the 6380 feel with 13s