Sent deck and stuff over to @Sender waiting for
design and him to senderized and what not, then gonna make battery, with just assembling and programming left. Hope to finish it soon.
4 Likes
I am already running unity, 13s8p on a Kaly deck.
Quite lovely.
6 Likes
Nice evoâŚ
You can easily run those focboxes at 40 amp battery max each on a street set up. With 13s you might not need to. On 12s at 80 max across the 2 its a monster for power. Do the math to get your wattage and then run them under the line as far as you can without sacrificing performance. Headroom is always a good thing because just because it worked for Joe Blogs doesnât necessarily mean it will work for you in your application and riding style.
Just ask @longhairedboy I believe his jake has killed numerous focboxes on 13s and yet @dickoz ran for years on his.
It will be a beast of a board my friend and will take some getting used to so keep it well under the limits and experiment. The erpm is fine above 60k too. I believe its been tested to 100k and personally speaking I have never had to change my total to 60k. Still the most reliable esc in my opinion if you donât do anything silly.
I do a lot of silly
Great build and looking forward to seeing the finished article because evoâs are the best esk8
ever. 
4 Likes
How would u compare it to 12s?
A lil bit faster. A lil bit more efficient.
People get too caught up in that stuff.
4 Likes
Been awhile, got the beautiful deck what an amazing job @Sender
Waiting on @Meeep to loan me his spot welder and help me build my first non-nese battery, well which is only my second battery.
I think I did well on the color coordination front. Just missing 1 crucial piece. The battery. Hopefully though my motors donât vibrate like hell when itâs put together. Last build which didnât last long, either the gears or the motors vibrated and I couldnât tell which was doing it, though the build overall wasnât for me, now weâre here and Iâm glad, love the evo deck, standing on it regularly I can feel the stability.
Perhaps a new name in relation to the dragon design?
7 Likes
Mounted the motors, threadlocked all the screws. Ready nearly, just need to wire up the battery + BMS, run motor detection and hopefully be done.
Had to really tighten the back trucks to make sure the mounts and the motors donât touch the enclosure during turning. Using a +5 degree riser in the back so the motors wouldnât touch originally. Gonna need to get extra long hardware so I can get some extra clearance and loosen the trucks back up (I think I need about 1/2" to make it work), though, thatâs not today. Going to be unable to screw the front 2 and back 2 enclosure screws because in the back Iâm just running the wires under the enclosure for now. The split P pack in the front prevents the front 2 from going in.
Battery:
I shouldâve gone with 13s4p just to make it easier, there probably wouldâve been lots more space. Now, itâs super dooper tight to fit everything. I donât even have the wires in there, luckily I am going to use braided copper, which is thin, probably gonna get compressed in the middle of the pack near the ESCs. I tried fitting the ESCs in there, when they both had XT-60s it was a pain in the ass and probably wouldnât have worked. I wired both ESCs to one XT-90 and it saves a little space though my shitty noob skills made it take up more space than needed, and each ESC 12 awg connection meets up to a 10 awg wire which goes into the XT-90, hopefully itâll be okay, not a wiring expert. Will add those pictures later. I think I have bottlenecked the board but thatâs okay.
1 Like
Iâd make the battery connections on top of you can for simplicity
1 Like
Wired up the battery. All thatâs left is the charge port and BMS. When given power to the OG Focboxes, are they suppose to flash red fault LED a few times?
2 Likes
Wired up charge port and BMS, plugged in and tested, nothing blew up, time to put some neopreme for vibration dampening, and some final touches. Then to program the ESC and test the board. So closeeeee.
3 Likes
Will you sandwich the battery? or just apply it on one end?
And will you have all the cells stuck to the enclosure via gravity and plus maybe some glue/velcro assistance to prevent shifting?
Asking for a friend 
Well I think Iâm just gonna put it on one side of the battery for now, the top side which is easily accessible. If needed Iâll add some on the bottom. There wonât be much shifting considering the split P group will be sandwiched by the deck and enclosure, and the ESC side of the battery is sandwiched by the enclosure. Anything between is basically locked because of the sandwich on the ESC side.
1 Like
aha understood!
So looking down at this image youâll lay a sheet of neoprene onto it,
and then bolt the enclosure onto the deck and everything will be a tight fit (partly compressed by the neoprene)
lovely build btw!
1 Like
Had to move wires because the wires just underneath the enclosure like that even with angled risers caused them to touch when turning. Drilled some unnecessary holes that didnât work. I think itâs fixed now.
I rode around like this for a little bit, I think itâll be okay. Heard some noises from the board but I think it was pebbles crunching under the wheel, hard to tell. Gonna ride some tomorrow if it doesnât rain and test some more. Feels solid right now.
1 Like
I had strips, though anything will probably work. I forgot to add the neoprene before I had mounted the enclosure. Could hear the battery flopping up and down. Had to reopen it which wasnât fun. I also added the layer beneath the battery as a precaution, was not going to reopen that thing again. After having to mess with the wire organization, it made it even harder to put back on. Itâs more than a tight fit, the front 2 bolts canât be screwed down. The back 2 still canât even though I fixed wiring because the screws pop out more than the enclosure there so the motors touch them before enclosure. Everything in between that I can only assume it is being compressed by the foam.
1 Like
Update: did some test riding. Started at 67% and felt as if it had full power, but I dont know what full voltage feels like yet since I havenât tested it at that voltage yet. Accidentally left it on overnight, drained about 25% to 25%. Yesterday in my tests I believe one motor kept coming loose and caused the belt to come loose and slip lots. This led to an uncomfortable event. I made a poor decision and misjudged how much it was slipping since it got worse and the motor moved and make the belt looser. Went down a steep hill with a stop sign and couldnât exactly stop in time. I think I was also a bit too light on the brakes. In hindsight I shouldâve jumped off the board whenever I could since it probably wouldâve stopped the board quicker and I wouldâve been safer rolling around but thatâs for next time. Also essentially avoiding that hill at all times, and choose a different path. Car was coming and I think if I had stopped, due to large braking distance, I wouldâve probably ended up right in front of a car. But with what I was dealt and mindset then and split second decision. I ran the stop sign since no car on the right, but a car far on the left, probably wouldâve hit me if I had stopped.
I added some more loctite back to those motor screws and can only hope that solves the slip issue. I did quick mini test and it seemed to be okay. Gonna add some extra miles before im sure. Thereâs squeaking coming from the board but I think those are the bushings.
1 Like
Thatâs a lot of power for less than 16hrs of idle on time 
Do you know why itâs so much?
Shit happens.
1 Like
May have been more than just overnight, I honestly canât remember now.
Accidentally did it again, didnât drain that much this time.
1 Like