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Been loving my Ryan lights

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The output from the BEEMS is impressive. Shocked by how stable the pattern is, almost looks like it’s mounted to your helmet.

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Yeah they basically make it ridable in most places without a flashlight. The beam pattern is really nice, its flat, rather than being a round spot.

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Sup yall, I’ll be running a mild 10% sale for Black Friday this year! Use code PEVBF10!

Any orders placed between now and Monday the 28th of November will ship on the 1st of December, due to personal travel plans.

Along with this sale, the C8 tail lights are now supported on both the Onsra Belt Drives (Onsra TKP trucks), as well as on the Apex Jump Drives. These entries are added on the website under the C8 Tail Light mounts, but there are no pictures for them up on the website quite yet.

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I’d like to pickup 2 tail lights. Will they fit on some old Onsra DKP or Surfrodz?

That’s a good question, I’d need to see the setup. I think they’re more likely to fit on the Onsra DKP, if they didn’t change their motor mount.

For the Onsra DKP, I use the belt guard screw holes to attach. Works well, and the belt guard was basically useless anyway. If you’ve got some pics of your setup I’d probably be able to tell you. Keep in mind these mount to the motor mount, not the truck itself.

You’re welcome to buy the lights by themselves and develop your own mount as well, if I don’t have an option you like. They come with the default like bike stem mount elastic as well

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These are onsra gen1 black carve DKP’s. Fairly generic. They did have the belt guards on there. Not sure if the screws are in the same place on the mounts. It’s 30mm between each screw tap for the belt guard.



They look exactly the same to me (mine are 30 as well). Seems like you’d be able to get the ones I designed.

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Order placed. Site looks good!

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Thanks for your order! If for some reason it ends up being incompatible I’ll figure something out, but my confidence level is very high haha

How much do you charge for a kg of nickel strip? @ShutterShock

Well I would need to check my stock to see if I still have a kg, I think I do.

I can get back to you on Monday when I’m home

It’s not urgent, I’m just trying to gauge the price. If you don’t have a roll on hand, I can wait a bit if the price is good.

Hey @ShutterShock I placed an order for the lights for my Trampa build. I missed your email earlier. I replied but thought I’d share it here too.

I’m mounting the switch on my top mounted battery box which is in the middle on my board. It is a trampa 9-69 deck. My board is pretty much stock.

A little bit of extra cable is ok as I can tuck it into my box.

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Hey yeah, thanks for the message. I will work on it and hopefully ship this Friday, sorry for the delay.

Usually, the cables from the lights are just long enough to reach the box, but not go inside it, so I’m trying to think what the best solution is. On some other installs I’ve just had an XT30 outside of the box that they connect into, rather than having the two MR30’s. Those are more oriented toward underslung enclosures.

Do you think it would work out for you if they are pre-joined? To be honest, the easiest solution is for you to be able to solder the cables onto the ends of the lights so you can pick the perfect length - but I understand if you do not have the equipment. Will you be running them under the footpads?

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So I would need about 2 ft cable for connecting these inside the box. The cables holes inside the box are located towards the rear so I need a little extra because of that.
Please see the attached pictures.
I’m going to drill a hole on the side for the switch for the lights. And yes these are going to go under the wings.


Hmm okay gotcha, running under the wings is great, I did it on someone’s build and it worked fine.

I think the default cable lengths will be enough for you, they’re about 28 inches from light to cable tip, so you should be able to feed their cables directly into the box. If I solder on the MR-30 for you, you’ll need to have a hole in the box big enough to feed that through, which may not be ideal. Alternatively, I can wire the white and yellow together, and use one XT30 for each light, then you can just poke holes in your box for XT30 instead. This would take away the ability to use high OR low beam, because they’d be wired together

ORRrrr I can wire the switch assembly and just leave the lights unterminated, and you can feed their cables into the box and then solder the connectors on inside. It’s kind of up to you. Not sure if you know what I mean or not.

Basically:
Do you want High-low functionality or do you want them to be wired together
What size hole(s) do you want to punch in your box
Do you need the lights to be removable

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I can work with this option. I can totally solder two wires together but am just not confident to solder the connectors on the switch/lights.

I don’t care that much if I lose the option to switch between high and low beam. But if I can still have that feature with the above configuration then that would be great!

I was only hoping to punch a single hole for the switch for the lights.

And I plan on having these lights on the board permanently. I will purchase another set for my second build!

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Great. I can work with that for sure. I think you’ll have a better experience if you terminate the lights yourself so you can decide exactly how long you want the leads on em

I’ll wire it for high OR low then

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