Yes, top mounting would add a large amount of clearance and would be objectively a better choice. You wouldn’t need adjustable baseplates if you top mount, and I believe it’s possible to run 6384s on 220s with the fixed BN baseplates.
Being dropped through looks better and adds some stability, but makes everything else terrible. I wouldn’t recommend it honestly.
Gotcha. I’ll probably top mount it honestly, then, I appreciate the input. I wouldn’t have known otherwise!
I would consider using belts instead of the drive…
Especially if you are just getting into diy
Will make all this way easier.
Some of my early builds are low low drop through…
Radium makes some nice anti sink plates that’ll mostly fix the looks 
that’s the route I’m gonna go.
Look at how low the Demonseed is here…
Ooh, that’s low! Honestly, ground clearance is not a big priority for me, since I’d just be going around small neighborhood roads, some bike paths, and the occasional commute.
Low low feels good. And looks good.
I too can mostly live with minimal clearance, and like to run 76mm Akashas…
But will add complexity and beat your parts up more.
Such id life with urethane.
Have you seen the TB board?
It’s really annoying trying to get trucks that don’t have clearance issues when it comes to using the hummie deck. I’ve found that only using DKP trucks or what I used (Onsra TKP trucks) allowed for there to be a lot of space for motors and no wheelbite/motor bite from the back.
I have! It seems like a decent board but honestly I’m partly interested in the DIY aspect of picking out all the parts, building the battery, etc.
These are boardnamics.
I’ve got a many year old hummie build with rear mounted belt drive and drop through 220 hangers, works great. Motors are beat up but still work fine
Tougher with the gear drives to drop through I think.
GDs will have deck bite, belt drive wouldn’t be hard for sure but to do the GDs would require taking a chunk out of the deck for clearance or using some brackets to push the wheel base out
True, and from previous people I’ve seen route out the deck for the trucks, it hasn’t been a good experience as the deck stresses and snaps much much easier.
DIY is a disease…
consider a sanding drum that fits in your drill (if you don’t happen to have an oscillating sanding drum laying around). If you loosen the trucks enough to be able to push on the deck you can find the centerpoint of the bite and that’s where you lay the sanding drum, with the end pointed in the direction the motor leans from.
Somebody is invariably going to suggest placing adhesive backed sandpaper on your motor cans and just using the cans as the well sanding drums. The problem with that is that you want the radius of the wells slightly bigger than the radius of the can. Also, wtf you’ll be scrubbing them with alcohol to get the glue off.
I had a similar situation when I did a drop through using torque board direct drives on a maple evolve clone deck. Drum sanded motor wells did the trick.
a highly contagious virus that can be transmitted electronically and transforms the host’s abilities over time. There is no cure.
based on those pics, the lamination was solid too. that’s wood breaking, not glue. makes me wonder why the witchblade I did with the inset for the haggy kahua trucks hasn’t done that. It’s got a ridiculous number of miles on it.
To be fair, this slammed into a curb going about 20mph, so it wasn’t toooo surprising. Still, I’ll never inset trucks again because it did happen.
makes sense. I don’t have a habit of slamming into curbs
