Where do I go to in Vesc Tool App to see current settings ? I’m curious to see where I’m at with my Trampa board as far as regen for my brakes etc etc .
Thank you
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Motor CFC, first selector set to General , second selector set to Current.
What is the biggest factor that creates heat for your motors? I feel as though with my settings being as conservative as they are, I should not be getting up near 80c on motor temps but it wouldn’t be the first time I was wrong. Is it better to run motor detection while the motors are around 50c or at room temperature and with belts on or off?
Try redoing the motor setup
Thank you . This is all a little new to me .
May I ask what kind of board you are riding ?
Pulling this thread into the new year to take a look at VESC settings.
As of the ride I just took I’m at:
12s5p P42A 21700
FS 6374 x2
MakerX DV6 / VESC6
Hoyt Puck
Braking was a little sluggish, so I’m looking to tune some values. From research, it seems like people like to bump Battery Current Max Regen beyond the normal charge rating.
Any opinions? Could I safely adjust regen to -20 or -30?
Additionally, it seems like adjusting the PPM settings may help the tepid Puck response. It felt odd - I could pin the wheel all the way to max throttle and it took a good amount of time before the board really seemed to start pushing.
Was:
Positive Ramping Time: 0.40 s (default)
Negative Ramping Time: 0.20 s (default)
Input Deadband: 10%
Throttle Expo: 0%
Throttle Expo Brake: 0%
Considering:
Pos Ramp: 0.30 s
Neg Ramp: 0.10 s
Deadband: 5%
Throttle Expo: 5%
Throttle Expo Brake: 0%
Would love some guidance here from those with experience.
I’m of the opinion that I’d rather have slightly reduced battery age than not be able to stop in time in an emergency. Besides braking should only charge at the maximum rate for a very brief period of time, and shouldn’t cause too much heating. I have mine set to around 1.5C, which is strong enough for me while not massively going over the continuous charge limit.
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5p P42A is good for 5x4.2A per datasheet (-21A). Even that I’ve found is a little weak at higher speeds. I agree with using higher than speced values and go for -30 to -35. The duration that batteries will see that current is so short that I think it’s worth the extra breaking power, especially as you need more regen amps the faster you go.
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Just to be clear, this needs to be set at 50% per side right? (on a dual esc)
I ask b/c this is exactly how I calculated it, then took half (-21*0.5= -10.5 per side)
So -35A bat regen total would be -17.5A per side, yes?
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Yes, exactly
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This seems to be the consensus from the other threads I’ve read. Sounds good, thank you gentlemen.
Any thing look out of place with the other current settings?
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Looks solid otherwise. Increasing the throttle expo is a good idea to improve throttle response, but I’ve had trouble with the throttle not fully disengaging if I set the deadband too small.
Not to be captain obvious, but make sure you calibrate ppm in puck mode 3.
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Mr Captain Obvious, i didn’t even know there were modes… should prob go find the manual
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You’re not the first, don’t feel bad
Hit the mode button (top right) to change mode. Vibrates 3 times for mode 3 etc
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Excellent. Just watched the YouTube video from Hoyt. Does it retain it’s last mode setting after a power cycle? I.e. do you 3x click every ride?
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It keeps whatever it was set on when you power cycle 
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Can anyone recommend vesc breaks settings pleas. My board has Flipsky FSEC 4.12, 6374 motor and 10s3p (Molicel P26A) battery.
I did an initial setup of course I Forgot to take photos and don’t remember anything. The breaks feel way to soft. I’m not riding like crazy, but it takes way too long to stop. I read a bunch of how much is safe for the battery ect. Of course, I want the battery to be safe and last as long as possible, but I don’t want to get into a situation where I cant break for a stupid driver ect. There is a lot of those where I live. 