I don’t have kids, just want a fun toy!!!
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So my wheel arrives on Friday! I started playing around with a design!
I have no idea of the real dimensions, but I’ using some pictures that found online as reference… It’s going to be tricky to measure something like this motor with some sort of precision, I’m worried that I’m gonna mess-up especially the width (distance between the two rail mounts) and that dimension is critical!
My plan is to CNC the rail’s and have a sheet on top and bottom…
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How much did you pay for it + shipping?
I’m planning on picking one up off the Facebook marketplace.
Still haven’t seen a single Pint motor for sale, but heard about someone selling one so they’re out there.
It was not cheap… 500! it’s an XR motor…
I might spend more than buying an onewheel on this project I think… especially because ideally you need a 15S battery to run this motors, and those speed controllers are expensive!
edit: apparently the motors are the same! check this!
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I remember seeing that but didn’t believe it. Would prefer pics.
damn so did you get it from Ryan WiTz Hurewitz? he sells then for $499 + shipping.
I think if you spent the same amount as an XR you would have something nicer than a XR.
Actually met someone on a Pint at the store a little while ago. They are are powerful motors.
If you need any measurements, let me know. And yes all of the motors except the v1 are the same and are interchangeable. The pint just has a smaller diameter tire.
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Distances between rails are very much appreciated… and also the clearance from the wheel and the footpads / enclosures…
I’m pondering if i need a rail perpendicular to the main ones or if just a steel plate on the bottom and top would be strong enough…
Rail to rail is 8"
Edge of rim to footpad is 2.25"
I’d bet a steel plate on top and bottom would be fine
Did some research and found two motors that may work with the diy onewheel builds… @Jopj @Fungineers opinions?
This one’s eight inches, but with 1000w and an advertised top speed of 60km/h it seems interesting.
This one’s 10 inches so more inline with the peipei motor, and they advertise a top speed of 35km/h at 48v. Some number crunching shows it should go around 25km/h at 10s/36v (35*(36/48) = 26.25km/h)
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$150 shipping per motor from that site 
First one appears to be a solid rubber tire? second one looks like it came from the same factory as the Phub.
If we can find something good a group buys for US/Dutch folks would be nice
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Yeah I know the shipping costs are awful. I’ll try emailing them and asking if they can offer something cheaper…
36V is nominal voltage. Your batteries probably have less than 30% charge at that voltage.
Although with these advertised speed ratings you often don’t know what you get until you actually drive it.
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Hey guys, I have been thinking about a build for a while and recently I have found these motors, do you think the could drive the board if it was mounted inside a go kart wheel or that I would need at least two of them. It would be cool, if they would be useable.
I can not post a link but you can find them on aliexpress under the name 8313 swiss outrunner motor.
They look pretty interesting, apparantely they have new and refurbished ones with slightly varying specs for different prices and the offer free shipping.
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https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33014917021.html
120KV seems a little high for a ~10" wheel size vehicle.
The specs for motors like this can be prone to inflation
for the $100 you would spend on these motors alone +$50 you could get a whole tire wheel axle and everything with the Phub188. Great value even if not crazy powerful.
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I’d say a 8 inch solid wheel is likely too small, would result in little clearance when tilting. For 60 km/h it’ll have a relatively high Kv, which means it requires higher current for any given torque than a lower Kv one which should be taken into account.
The other one is a Phub-188, which physically is pretty good in my opinion. It would be interesting to know if they really make different Kv versions of those, and how the 800W version is different. I’m also looking to either modifying my Phub-188 or getting a ~20Kv version, but Peipei is very, very bad at actually giving out the specs. The standard one is ~10Kv and much too slow at 10s voltages.
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I opened my Phub-188 to see if I could eke out some speed by doing a wye->delta conversion.
I figured the two end caps likely attach to the rotor with those screws in them, and hold the rotor in place with bearings. After removing the screws nothing would budge, but a solution presented itself in the form of a hammer.
By furiously hammering at the non-wire side of the axle I got the stator and the other endcap to slide out somewhat, I could then grab the endcap and pull the stator out with it. Really snug fit between the bearing and the axle.
Tight magnet packing, no retaining rings or anything extra to keep them in place. Also no O-ring between the endcap and rotor, so this motor is not waterproof.
There is an O-ring on the axle which is nice. The hall board is held in place only by the sensor leads and some blobs of putty, but seems to be pretty solid and the sensors themselves are embedded in the laminations.
There’s some knotted string holding the magnet wire in place, and some wooden dowel-things used to wedge it tight in the slots. The magnet wire is wrapped in some sort of insulation in the slots, which I guess would reduce the chance of it rubbing and breaking on the edges.
There’s a fair bit of empty space between the stator and the endcaps on both sides, moreso here where the wires come out. Assuming Peipei’s power specifications actually mean anything, it could be that they simply make the stator with different lengths. There’s certainly room to grow for the “800W” version which is now on Aliexpress.
A zip-tie holds the phase wires in their place.
Someone with more knowledge of motors could say whether this winding is good or bad. It does seem to fill the slots pretty nicely, but there’s the odd strand which is more loose than the others. Handmade?
This here looks like it might be the wye center termination. It’s got three sets of wires going in there. Can someone with more experience with this sort of thing confirm? Appears to have 6 parallel wires in each set of 3, so 6 parallel wires per “turn”?
I guess this is where I’d need to do my work if I’m to convert it to delta, breaking out that center connection and soldering each set of three to the (hopefully) right phase wire.
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Hi,
first tests, first problems. I have short circuits, because my foot sensor dont connect all the time. I’m going to make a sensor with velostat and conductive copper stickers. Can these short circuits create variations in the inclination of the gyroscope?
because after a while that I ride the board, I end up being completely tilted to move forward, and the battery pack almost hit the ground.If I turn off the board, the onewheel start to be fine, but rapidly the same matter happens. I calibrated the gyro with vesctool in the IMU section, but there must be something I set wrong, if someone could help me, it would be cool.
herre is my settings 
Foot sensor should not affect gyro. The zero angle drifting sounds like a common problem; too much gyro bias or too low madgwick beta value.
The angle is estimated by combining gyroscope and accelerometer measurements, gyro cannot tell which way is up but it’ll react quickly when the angle changes. Accelerometer can use gravity to tell which way is up, but is affected by the board bouncing around. So basically we mainly use gyroscope and continually correct it’s output with the accelerometer. Beta value in madgwick is how much relative importance is placed on either sensor, with higher beta it relies more on the accelerometer. You can try increasing madgwick beta, but beware that too much will make the angle jump around whenever the board experiences sharp accelerations.
I had some MPU9250’s from AliExpress be faulty in that their gyro shows constant rotation rate when stationary, not sure if the VESC calibration takes care of that (it should?). You can check that in the vesc tool IMU data section, gyro output should be very close to zero when it’s stationary.
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