Ive experienced absolute opposite, ti and ss are much more workable (cold work not forge work) when submerged in coolant or the heat from machining will stay super concentrated to the point of melting tool steel bits and blades and hardening the work at the point of contact and warping the crap out of thin ss but less so on ti
Pans, flatstock and rod when red hot can be handled without gloves much closer to the heat than mild steel/iron which sit in the middle of the road in my head for heat conductors.
Ti is pretty low coefficient of thermal expansion, could you just bend the wire ends in and capture them in a little pocket? Then the rods could get replaced when lost. Pocket could just be a slightly less prominent snap fit to keep the wear on the center of the stock
I dont do any machining of Titanium. Only drilling occasionally. Most of it is grinding on a large belt sander (2x72 grinder in knife making industry).
Woah i had no idea that you could hold titanium with one end red hot without gloves. Thats pretty wild. I guess in my case the parts i was grinding were small and got heat up from the constant friction from the grinder. Heat went through the gloves pretty quick.
The TI wire is a pretty good idea. Its relatively inexpensive and is malleable enough to bend into the holes. Maybe have a groove for the wire to “sit” in.
What if we used a small plate that screws into the enclosure? It hangs down off the enclosure, has 2 holes for hardware. 2 small bolts through enclosure with nuts. Get em nice and tight, maybe a bit of loctite. The plate would hang off the side of the enclosure.
My instagram is ShannonSteelLabs
Website is the same along with YouTube.
Althoigh my website and youtube are not super up to date. But still have some cool stuff!
Wow dude, those look really nice. Especially that folder - clean af.
The simple look of the round stock on the edge of the enclosure is part of what attracted me to this, i don’t know how to do that with plate without some welding or tapping. Maybe take a piece and press it into a die to make a curve/ rounded edge to hangover the edge. Then drill and countersink screw holes To support it and use hot glue to keep it from rattling loose?
Side note: i needed to get a tail plat for my short board because i do tail stops and want a sacrificial edge and got a pair of these:
Could have a plate or holder similar to these but the forces on a side rail are a bit different so something like an 80s board grind rail shape in plastic with inserted ti might do the trick
When I was dragging the board, I frequently wanted to power it on/off, and had to do an awkward shuffle to reach down to the rear. Now I can do it without breaking stride
This is Josh, riding on MBS channel trucks. Was such a blast racing with him that weekend, he’s crazy talented fast. I think I had the better board, but he still was faster.
To get his trucks raceable, he drilled like 20 holes into the bushings. They looks like swiss cheese😂
Massive respect for him and his skills, both technical and riding.
(He said he’s considering upgrading to duality trucks soon, if he can reuse his motor mounts)
I swear, something about group rides and this board. I’ve got more track miles then group ride miles, but every board failure has happened on a group ride
Went on a group ride on Saturday, somehow I lost two locknuts on the rear truck. Thank god @HAIRYMANJACK pointed out that my rear truck was moving all over the place, because I didn’t even feel it.
Thanks to the great crew that I was riding with, we had the tools to steal a bolt from my front trucks so I could finish the ride. Thanks @TheSharpergardner for having those Allen keys.
I swapped out all the hardware when I got home for some button head bolts of proper length. Thanks @Titoxd1000 for those.
While I was at it, I spent a couple hours this weekend to properly panel-mount my XT60 charge port. 3D printed a little plug to fit into the existing enclosure hole. Unfortunately, there’s a p-group right behind it, so the XT60 had to be off-center. Not the prettiest thing in the world, but it’s functional!
Also swapped over my gear ratio from 4.4 to 5.5. This will make my top speed a more reasonable ~45 mph (used to be ~60mph). Hopefully I don’t blow up my motor’s bearings.
I didn’t loctite my previous set of pinions, so the motor pinions came off super easy, no torch needed. I was told previous people have had issues with no loctite, so was really happy to see there was not any kind of wear or damage inside the drives.
Swapping both sides only took like 30 minutes, including re-loctite’ing all the bolts. I love these jump drives.
Obvious statement alert: 5.5 is WAY torquier then 4.4, feels like a new board. You Electrify Expo San Francisco Modified riders are in trouble- I want that podium
Put some black Gaffers tape over the Lacroix in the middle of the deck. I think it looks better without it, the white letters popped a little too much. Plus, @Titoxd1000 deserves all the credit for how awesome this board is. Tito hmu when you get some Tito system stickers so I slap em there
I agree that it looks better… for now that black tape is going to be light brown with dust in 5 miles or less lol. I suggest a piece of grip tape if you want it to stay black.
This reminds me of when Ben was riding his new blue board and @bboybowzer I think noticed his truck had lost all its nuts and was just held by gravity.
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that black tape is going to be light brown with dust in 5 miles or less lol. I suggest a piece of grip tape if you want it to stay black.