Nylock is a scam sold to us by big plastic
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The nerve damage has a funny tingly feeling 
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: 
: My arms are the same color as the helmet🫠
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Oh sweet mary and joseph thats some fucking sunburn alright. Get help.
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I’m really hoping the saturation is cranked and it’s not actually that bad 
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great to see how much you’re enjoying the board so much that you’ve basically made ankle wreacher your backup board
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Someone stole all my safety gear out of my car, so I didn’t have my normal mesh upper body armor.
that, plus long pants and long hair been my standard garb for so long that I forgot normal people wear sunscreen😂
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I spent my 4th of July checking things off this board’s to-do list.
Took off the enclosure, inside looks great after all the miles I’ve put on it. Odometer says it’s been ridden 373 miles. Doesn’t sound correct… (might be from freespinning when exiting the corner?) I have definitely been riding 30+ miles a week, ~200 miles is probably more correct.
BMS Power Button
The BMS needs a toggle switch for it to turn on and enable charging. My previous solution was taping the switch that the BMS came with to the outside of the enclosure.
Looks ugly, and the switch was starting to fall apart from the heavy vibration.
I have a switch that I salvaged from something (an ebike battery, I think?) that has a 36V LED and has a nice tactility
Reverse Engineering Rabbit Hole
I need to step down my 84V pack to 36V for the LED. The simplest solution is to add a resistor. But how big?
Having no idea the PN of the switch, I applied 36V from a power supply, and measured the current using a multimeter.
The LED draws 15mA @ 36V
Math Rabbit Hole
84V - 36V = I need 48V of voltage drop
Using ohms law;
R = V / I = 48V / 15mA = 3.2 kΩ resistor
To calculate the power it needs to dissipate,
P = V * I = 48V * 0.015A = 0.72W
That’s a non-negligible amount.
I only have 1/4W resistors on hand, so I’ll have to use a multiple. Double the power requirements for safety, and that means 6 resistors. I’ll put them in two series groups of three, to give more surface area for heat dissipation.
waves hands
[end math]
Math says 3.2 kΩ, so six 4.7kΩ resistors arranged thusly
I decided to try a new assembly method and use solder splices.
They’re basically heat shrink with built-in solder.
Cloe enough!
Splice on some mil-spec wire and solder to switch
Crimp some JST connectors onto the wires, and presto, the finished assembly (next to the old one).
The red plug attaches to the charge port +/- for the LED, but I didn’t add an extra plug when I installed the port. Fortunately, it fell off when I was drilling a new switch hole.
Pulled off the backshell and soldered two extra wires
Hell yeah, it works. Much better then before.
Huey is not amused
The grip tape in the rear has been abused with so much track racing
I removed the affected grip tape, cleaned with iso, and cut a replacement swatch of vicious. I tried to match the rest of the tape, pretty happy with my handiwork.
Hubba Hubs
I got some black Hubba Hubs from @HAIRYMANJACK (Thanks dude!! 
) I’m hoping stretched tires will give me more grip and help the tires last longer.
@poastoast sent me a file for Apex Jump drives → Hubba adaptors, Thanks!!
These things are incredible, S-tier modeling job dude.
I printed them in Polycarbonate.
Sadly I can’t get more then 3~4 threads onto the nut 
ehhhhhh not worth the risk. I’ll have to explore some other solutions… tbd.
Some other Updates…
Tires
Oh tires… tires… tires… I keep dissolving them.
This board is on the 4th set
- First set of NOVAs- corded in ~160 miles. They were actually showing cords at the start of the 6-lab final at EE Long Beach, I was waiting for them to blow up. thank god they didn’t.
- A used set of Kendas. Corded in a week.
- Got a used set of NOVAs from @SinCityEsk8, corded em in 8 days
- A new-ish set of of Kendas. It’s been two weeks, still riding them. They’re starting to show cords, I’ll probably cord them on Saturday.
I’ve got a new set of NOVAs on the way, they’re going to be my race set for EE San Fran. I’ve got a bunch of Kendas that still have life in them(Thanks to @HAIRYMANJACK !! ), so I’ll be running Kendas until EE to keep my set of NOVAs freshy fresh.
I’ll conclude with these photos, from a fantastic San Diego group ride a few weeks ago
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I was feeling the same with any set of my previous tires. My record is MBS roadies, from brand new to corded in 15-20 minutes riding time (without any burnouts).
You gotta try the CST C190. Either 8x3 stretched or 9x3.5, just get the rim as wide as you can and need 4" inner diameter support. Mooney likes the 8x3 better I have only tried the 9x3.5 so far. I am about 310 miles into my first set of 9x3.5s showing zero signs of cording so far, and they have plenty of grip outdoors (my record is 1.4G, usually pushing around 1-1.2G). About 80% of that 300 miles was track racing, and the rest was drag racing or hard carving. I am a little lighter about 190 lbs geared up though. Also the 9x3.5 measure around 208mm diameter at 15psi where I run them so it’s more like 8.3". They would help with your enclosure scraping, but the main thing that affects ride feel is axle to deck height and tires don’t affect that so you should be good on that front.
Bonus I think the MBS rockstar ii pro XL’s are compatible with the jump drives? You could widen those with a 3d printed widener, you can find the files for it in my thread or I can link them to you if you want. For the 9x3.5 I recommend at least 20mm.
The only thing is that you’ll have to keep checking your bearings time to time to make sure they are still good, as they wear quite fast compared to other setups, I change them around every 150 miles preventatively, but better to change a set of bearing than tires, right? 
I think the switch to 3001 bearings would solve bearing wear but haven’t tried yet.
Just the hubs are a little annoying with the bearings clicking in the bearing seat. A drop of loctite might solve that when installing the bearings but I won’t bother personally until I get the 3001s in there
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I found the same issue happens on apex airs when you try to use the hubba hubs / adapters.
In addition to only allowing a few threads, you also end up with the outer bearing riding on the threaded portion. This results in the wheel having a slight camber to it.
The SRB 3 links have enough axle to use jump drives with the adapter and hubba hubs.
Interesting, would love to see how they feel… I’ll add it to the list. Where’s the best place to buy them? Would my Hubba Hubs not work? What’s special about them that causes increased bearing wear?
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They are so wide that they need super wide hubs. My MBS rockstar II pro XL’s are 54mm wide between the insides of the lips and I added a 20mm 3d printed widener which is just about enough for the 9x3.5s. Therefore I end up with an effectively 74mm wide hub lip to lip (outer dimension 80mm), and the bearing is completely sideset in it, therefore not in the right position to support the wheel.
Here I have the 9x3.5s next to an 8" tire that measured around 7.5" and an exway venator esk8 race tire, 165x70 on paper. There’s just so much more meat to go through. Hard to convey it well without the picture. The actual contact patch is about 80mm per tire.
Nope you need 4" hubs, hubbas and most esk8 hubs are 3.75". Also not wide enough hahaha. Probably the MBS XL’s are the cheapest good option for them with the 3d printed widener that I designed.
I’m in the EU so not familiar with US based tire shops. Just google “CST C190 9x3.5-4” or “CST C190 9x3.50-4” and see what comes up. Sometimes they can be found under “maxxis c190”. I run the tubeless version personally with tubes inside but the tubed is probably just as good. Expect to pay about 30-35$ per tyre, any 9" tubes fit in them, the tubes I got from ali for about 3.5$ each.
With the 9x3.5 you want to run low pressures around 15psi because the sidewalls are very stiff. I enjoy the stiff sidewalls on track. Around 15psi is what I found to work decently both on track and for everyday riding, but certainly a little rougher then 8x2. Also on bad roads they roll kinda loud, but I am getting better efficiency on them compared to 8x2. They are hard to heat up but they don’t have to be super hot to grip well, around 110F/45C surface temp I gripped 1.4G on them on a clean and decent surface and I couldn’t push them over the limit. I think with your weight you should be good there especially in Cali weather. For a 150lbs rider probably wouldn’t work well.
The 8x3 version offers a softer compound apparently and much less stiff sidewalls. Those also need 4" rims though. Mooney likes them more, I am yet to try those personally though. They should be much easier to heat up though.
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Artem sells the 8 inch cst’s, not sure where you could buy the large ones though.
i got some low profile regular nuts (lol nuts) and used blue threadlocker
ez pz
(i still use that method on my raceboard)
could even just flip the nut around and thread the side with the nylon on first. did that for a while on the race board and it worked fine
thoo the nylon could give and you lose the nut
and we know what happens when we lose our nuts 
1 Like
yeah true 
Did you fit a circlip to the motor shafts on those reachers? Im struggling to keep my pinions set… fuckers keep coming loose. Tempted to just red loctite the bastards and move on
have you tried green 638 retaining compound?