Hmmā¦ Canāt seem to find much below 20mm.
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Mine are kinda finicky and lose contact at certain angles. We donāt really think about eucs much here
Actually at the same 20mm inner depth, the Neutrik Speakon would be perfect. If 20mm is something we can afford. I will add that 30A current capability is something that only certain boards would appreciate.
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They look cool, but there doeanāt seem to be an option with a cover. Also, the bulk of the connector is inside the board, it took me a while to come around, but i kinda like the connectors with the bulk on the outside. Every sq cm on the inside of an enclosure counts.
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Yeah, inside volume is expensive, I get that. Maybe itās less of a problem for bigger builds where these high current connectors make more sense?
Btw, here are the covers.
This seems perfect to lose, even if the fit is pretty decent.
This is better, but fits only heavier duty chassis mount inlets.
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Day 9, part 1
First thing to do today is assemble the drive-train, so that the threadlocker can cure. But before that, I wanted to mount the trucks to the deck to double-check I wonāt get wheel-bite.
Both my Surf-Rodz baseplate, and my Bowery-Surf adjustable baseplate (Thank you @Venom121212 ) had their holes too wide! I couldnāt bolt them to my deck, nor my Davega baseplate. So after drilling the holes wider with a 5mm drill-bit I finally got them to fit. Not super straight, but better than them wobbling side-to-side, so Iām going to leave it.
I think Iām running 40 degrees in the back, and 50 up front. The front sits a bit higher though, so maybe itās more like 38 and 52. Anyhow, since these hangers have rake (3mm I believe), I might flip the front hanger to have negative rake, and then the board should be level.
I also noticed that these FatBoy hangers have a slightly narrower bushing seat compared to original Surf Rodz, so my bushings donāt sit entirely flat unless theyāre cranked down. I have some surf-keys, that Iāll compare with and without once the board is rideable.
Also, in the back Iām using these cheap deck protector plates I bought at Sickboards.
Anyway, I stood on the board to check for wheel-bite, and it looks like I could even upgrade to 120mm wheels safely! 
So I might try Onsra wheels in the future. I also think people who wanted to replicate this setup could get away with 240mm FatBoy Surf Rodz hangers, although you would have to forward-mount your motors then.
Speaking of, I assembled the drivetrain. Red loctite on everything, except for green on the motor shaft. Once the threadlocker is cured tomorrow I will apply grease and close them up. Having to adjust backlash is annoying, but overall it took me less than 2h to assemble them.
Notice how if it werenāt for the hanger rake, these motors would not fit! They donāt fit reverse-mounted at any other angle, so I got really lucky. Of course, forward mounted you could probably do 100mm motors or something stupid. But for a street build this should be just fine 
Alright, time to do the internal wiring nowā¦
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That looks super nice!
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Day 9, part 2
Laid out the BMS and charge port in the enclosure. I think this is the wiring plan I will go for:
I then soldered the correct connector for my charger. I put in an XT-60 in the middle so that I could easily switch connectors for other boards. This is also useful in case my charger were to die, and I needed to borrow someone elseās. I feel like everyone has XT-60s, so using it as a universal connector to increase compatibility is a great idea, and Iāll be adding one for all of my chargers going forward.
(The green tape is so that I can quickly recognize the charger is 12s. I have blue tape on my 10s chargers, and red on my 16s one)
I also spent a while rearranging cells in my NESE modules so that they would all face the same orientation. All that remains is soldering on the balance lead lugs and the charge circuit, but I will do that tomorrow. Meeting up with some friends early tomorrow, so want to get a good nightās sleep. Besides, once I grease up the drives I need to put on the covers and add blue threadlocker to the housing bolts, so I have to wait for that to cure.
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Day 10, part 1
Greased up the drives, and closed them up, using blue threadlocker for the small outside bolts
I then started putting the wheels on, but they got stuck and wouldnāt go down completely. I remember seeing a boa wheel broken in half once when someone couldnāt get their FatBoy pulley off, so I decided Iād better get the wheels off instead of persisting. Some M5 bolts, a block of wood and a mallet later, I managed to get the wheels off 
Wondering now what I should do. Iām leaning towards making the kegel prongs of the gear drive thinner, because I want to be able to easily swap wheels. Rather than boring the wheel holes larger. Now: do I use sandpaper, or my dremel? 
Going to have to tape the drives up so that metal shavings donāt fly into them or the motors 
Part 2
Soldered the fuse and charge port lugs. Extended some of the balance wires. Just need lugs for those and will be done. Tomorrow. Iām sleepy 
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Why not drill wheels holes a bit wider? I wouldnāt touch gear drive adapters if I donāt have to.
I have 0 issues taking on and off TB 110 from same gear drive.
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I want to use my green wheels when I arrive in the US asap, and donāt want to drill them there on the spot. And I donāt see an issue with narrower prongs; worst case you can put tape around them to make them thicker if need be.
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Fuck boas small holes.
Iād drill them in case you switch wheels in the future. Iām sure someone will have a drill for ya @Carve
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But itās boas that have wrong diameter, not gear drive.
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My kegels wouldnāt fit on well, but just tried with my Caguamas and you are right, they do fit snuggly and with just the right amount of force. Fine, Iāll go to the store tomorrow and try to find a 5.5mm drill bitā¦
@BenjaminF You wouldnāt happen to have such a drill bit at your place or Andrewās, would you? That I could borrow on Friday for a few seconds 
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Do you have a plan for carrying the board on the plane, is it going as sports goods with the nese modules in carryon or is the whole board coming in the cabin or what? Iāve only looked at 1 or 2 European airlinesā terms of service but 1 of them (I think Ryanair, so not applicable for crossing the Atlantic) will not tea any PEV under any circumstances, even with the battery removed
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I bought a large Trampa bag for it. Oversized, but hopefully worth it. Will share pictures and my experience soon 
Iāve flown with batteries before, shouldnāt be too big of a deal; although I will print some āstickersā stating the Wh of each moduleā¦
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Yeah the batteries in hand luggage seems mostly fine (@mutantbass said itās no hassle at all I think), itās more the board itself I was thinking of. Iāll have to try looking into less crappy airlines than Ryanair then
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I think all of the flights I took my 1st electric skateboard with were Ryanair, lol. If the battery is missing itās just a skateboard with some electronics in the checked luggageā¦
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I might, yeah. When are you getting in on Friday? I am going to every event on the schedule, so I wont be home for most of the day. Hit me up on Telegram and we can try to work something out.
Ive got your order packed up too.
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Day 11
Bought the 5.5mm drill bit. 20 minutes of drilling per wheel later, they seem to go on alright. (Still a massive pain to take off though.) I flipped the front hanger to have negative rake, and got proper length bolts for the front. Board sits practically level now, nice.
Biggest time sink was finishing all the wiring. Will share pretty pictures of it later.
To hold the NESE modules in place Iām using Velcro. 2 pieces per module, then I put the whole thing in.
Then I did a quick bench test. Motors got detected at 60A, which is nice! Top speed on the bench was 55 km/h.
Unfortunately, one gear drive was making bit of a light scratching sound. Maybe the bearings? After hammering the wheel a bit to get it to sit more straight, it seems to have gone away. Although now I can hear a bit of squeeling from the v-ring. Looks like I should have added more grease than I already did. So I need to take the wheel off. Ugh.
Tomorrow morning will clean up the wiring a bit, sleeve the motor wires, and go for a test rideā¦ except itās pouring rain for the next few days. Which means my first real ride with this board might be in Portland, lol.
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