whats the problem with using wood screws to mount the enclosure? Compared to threaded inserts
Once you take them out/put back in a few times the threads will be pretty wallered out and junk. Justā¦ not a good idea.
Honestly, I could write paragraphs as to why wood screws should never be used. Iām high and donāt want to do that though.
Just donāt fuckin do it.
They work great!.. once. If you need to take off your enclosure more than a couple times over the lifespan of the board, youāll wear out the wood youāre screwing into, and the screws will strip out, and then you will have a bad day.
yeah ok makes sense. I guess i gotta do the fancy thing
Really? How are they working great with pressure distribution along a polymer enclosure and not cracking it? I guess if you have pan head wood screws with hex/torx/Robertson driveā¦
At that point, use a fucken insert
Start a build thread and c+p your problems there.
Youāre problems are not quick answer solutions and the replies would get lost in this thread
Itās not fancy. Itās modularity, repeatability, and functionality. Theyād eventually vibrate loose. To solve this, we use adhesives, metal, and threadlocker.
Adhesives meaning itās good practice to put the slightest drop of something on the outer threads of the insert as you seat it.
As said before, chuck up a build thread and people could probably help more. Perhaps say where youāre based too as there may be some helpful peopleā¦
I was making use of hyperbole. Wood screws are no bueno for this application, that has been established.
Oh, I was actually agreeing with you on the fact that they can work nicely as a one time thing. I just made the presumption that the average personās idea of a wood screw is a self-countersinking kind, which would mostly wreck an enclosure. Iām just urging that if somebody is lazy enough/otherwise wants to use a wood screw, to at least get a pan head/other sort of flanged variant.
This is what happens when 50% of work for the past 6 months is being one with the McMaster catalogueā¦
I use drywall anchors. Fight me.
I was thinking about using clamping toggle lock clevis pins the other night (along with neoprene gasket, all of my stuff has that tho) as a tool-less quick release enclosure design.
Someone had a flip open top mount box that looked cool that utilized those. I liked the ease of access with one piece of metal hardware.
So, is there such a thing as a DIY scooter forum? (think bird scooter). Someone asked if I could build one, I have no clue where to start (if there exists e-scooter chassis etc?)
I donāt know of a specific forum, but weāve got some good info here on power systems (batteries, BMS, ESC, that stuff) that is relevant, and endless-sphere.com is a general EV community covering everything from cars to bikes to scooters and beyond.
There are so many ways to build an electric scooter - Hub motors like Bird does, or belt drive, or chain drive, friction drive, and many sub-variants. It all depends on your level of skill, ability to fabricate, access to fabrication equipment (welder, sheetmetal brake, drill press, lathe, mill, the list goes on forever), budget, and requirements.
This is just kind of a thing I wanted to attempt for a friend, so the budget is not very high. The biggest hold back for me is the frame/chassis. I donāt mind fabricating things like motor mounts and adapting various parts, batteries/escs are no problem for me either, I just didnāt know if thereās a place to get rolling chassis for electric scooters as I donāt really feel like fabricating an entire frame. Way out of my time/patience.
I think @Riako has a vast knowledge on this. He has built an e scooter for his wife i do beleive?
So say I wanted to turn down the ends of a caliber truck to a cylindrical profile for a bearing to seat onā¦
Is this wise? How would I go about doing it given my complete lack of actual power tools?
For context it would just be a cm or so off the ends.
Other then battery size/ cell type and type of wheels how are some other ways to increase the range of a board in the build process?
In particular gearing and motor selection.
Say i didnt want a big top speed, 35km/h or somwhere there would it be better to go to a low gear ratio? so theres less power used to get up to sleep.
Also motor selection, if you can get your desired speed from duel 50xx motors is that more efficient then duel 63xx motors? Or do the bigger motors do the same job just more efficiently.
What Iāve always stuck to is the motor is most efficient running at about 80-90% of itās max RPM based on voltage/kV. Running higher battery voltage for higher motor speeds, then gearing it down so that top speed is just a little more than your ideal cruising speed. 50xx might be marginally more efficient if youāre not pushing the stator towards saturation.
Although thereās another thread discussing inefficiencies from too high RPMs and what I said are just general rule of thumbs, true for most setups but not all.