So even if you give them all small sequential turns on he way to tightening, it still happens?
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Even with the small sequential turns evenly on both sides until tight the can becomes slightly off kilter.
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@Jordicious I can understand this is all a bit confusing so let me help you out.
First, let’s put politics aside, Enertion is what it is, if the product is what you need then that is the essential for you
These are the options I would choose in your situation.
-
Wait until torqueboards comes’ out with their ESC.
This is also wisest since
-you have the time to wait ( i live in the French Alpes so I know what winter is all about)
-very good customer service, he is right here on the forum
-Can guarantee (99.9%) it will be a good product at the correct price.
-Sorry for the 0.1% of doubt, @torqueboards will confirm -
Unity. We avoid dual ESC’s that come from flipsky and maytech because of the problems stated above but the unity is different. It is a super solid product.
Read Damon’s review here -
Your stated Maytech. again No.2 is better because of price and quality but your riding your board in the end
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Same duck stance here man. I started with bindings and can’t pivot my back foot nearly as much as everyone says I should haha.
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@BillGordon The quality is bad but hopefully you can see the gap at the top is different in both pictures.
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That makes me think of a great question.
i know when i was riding ( board under maintenace) i duck stanced when i cruised and carved but when i go fast you are more like a +30/+30 stance (snowboard reference sorry)
so how do you go fast with Stella?
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Give it a moderate tug test - if you can pull it off with a light tug, it’ll come off during use.
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This seems like the wisest course of action 
I have indeed heard nothing but good things about TB products, so I’m thinking I’ll hold out for a bit until we at least know more about what those will look like.
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And the bell is perfectly round?
According to my calipers and eye its as round as I can tell. It spins fine under power its just wobbly and the less wobbles the better.
Motor shaft bent?
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I doubt it.
I ride regular so keep that in mind when looking at these photos.
My front foot stays mostly the same angle no matter the speed. It stays around 30° off from perpendicular to the deck.
When I really start hitting speed, I shift my weight on to the front foot a lot and my back foot actually rolls inside.
Idk if you have ever seen @MoeStooge’s wedge on top of his deck but he plants his foot on it to accelerate freakishly fast. I faux wedge my foot on the rear binding to blast off.
This position gives you very little turning control on your rear foot and makes for very stable speed runs
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@b264 for some reason only 1 motor is detecting hall sensors now that I use two receivers couldn’t you help please
What is the best fix and did you have this problem
If you can pull the solder blob off the PCB, then it’s not passable. That joint looks cold to me - You can tell by the sharp border between the solder blob and the pad. It should wet out and form a smoother transition.
A properly done joint, when pulled apart, will leave almost all the solder on the pad and just the wire will rip out of the solder. It will take quite a bit of force.
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@MysticalDork does it matter when you solder a pcb (let say bms) and the solder goes through the hole onto the other side?
I don’t have a photo or probleme, just wondering if this can cause an issue
Really depends on the specific PCB.
On most PCBs, the holes are plated through anyway so having solder go through won’t short anything out. In some cases like vias, adding solder can actually be desirable as it increases the thermal or current carrying capacity.
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another question then, i have a new evolve esc…other one broke…
one of the phase wires of the motor came off the esc on the old one. do we assume that all the solders are bad quality and that i should remove the solder with desoldering braid and resolder them?
I will share a photo tomorrow
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