I have two boards on and charging right now, I don’t think that would cause any issues with anything except the battery – and that’s only if the charger stopped working and the battery died, ESC still should be fine
O would think so too @b264 but this is the only variable in my situation, so just pointed it out. Battery is all well at 50.4.
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Oh, crap. Yes, seems to be fucked. I was all hopeful from that other photo!
Yes canbus worked so far (before updating it)
After the update i could go to the connection tab, choose the connected COM and scan for the can vesc. I even could press the can forward button that would switch to green. Everything after that point resulted in the vesc tool saying “firmware too old, check if the vesc i plugged in” etc.
Also if i both were connected via can and the usb is in the slave the vesc tool still would only programm the master.
Like i said i switched to ack and it worked on the first try. I just wanted the smart reverse, thats all.
Also while we are at it. When i was on the 3.62 and activated smart reverse the Motor had some hickups, any idea?
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Should I - could I try a non default FW?
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Thank you @Linny !
Just a few questions
So a drop of dishwashing liquid or more?
And you mix it all with the dye?
This is for wheels btw.
Do you turn over the wheels? (Heads to tails)
And how warm? Like washing-your-hands warm?
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I mix the whole bottle, if you have it in the powder form, put all of it.
For me, my wheels had the round part facing down, so i just spin the wheel ya know.
For the water, real hot, but not boiling hot once your wheels are in. I have it boiling first, then submerge the wheels. If you plan to leave it longer than an hour, the temperature will drop, so occasionally have it on low heat to ‘simmer’ it.
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Thanks!
I think i might Baie-Marie it (boil water in massive saucepan then place a smaller bowl with water and the wheels inside so the wheels are never in contact with the heat of the bottom)
Unless of course the wheels float and disregard everything I said lol.
How many g or ml is one bottle?
Does one bottle do 4 wheels?
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Ya 1 bottle is enough, the one i have is 207ml.
i don’t dye stuff often so don’t take my word for it, but if you have a pot that uses the least amount of water, but yet can submerge everything, would be best. Since the dye will be more and less water used, making it more concentrated.
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You can try Ackmaniac instead. On my two favourite drivetrains, one works better with Ack and one with latest vesc tool. No idea why.
Last question a promise lol
Do you do one wheel at a time?
Because then it would be easy to use little water 
Do em all lol, imagine they all come out being a different shade 
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Amazon or eBay, usually.
Why are motor kv’s so hard to report accurately? Bough a pair of 190kv and they measure 149 and 153, bought a 140kv and it measures 119kv, bough more 190kvs and they are 161 and 167…and these are decent quality motors too (maytech, racerstar, and torqueboards). Like I prefer the extra torque but can’t they at least be sold with the correct numbers?
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How are you measuring them?
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Agree this depends on how you measure and what fudge factor you use when trying to calculate the RMS, just read through this article myself, but explains some of the details and why it’s sort of wrong to even use kv as a ‘rating’ since it’s really the inverse of Kt (the torque constant)
I guess since the max frequency you can open gates to keep a motor turning over is limited by how much current/torque you can apply and therefore accelerate the can around, so in a round about way the voltage determines the current and the current determines the force/speed (and the coils/wire will have some max current) also the back-emf determines the max voltage you could apply before the EMF generated in the coils cancels out the voltage applied to them (I have a super rough understanding of this… but hopefully that didn’t just make things more confusing or was too wrong)
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Oh also I will make a thread about this I guess not to pollute the Noobs question thread too much but if anyone is interested in setting up their own data logger with a raspberry pi these instructions look pretty good:
If I can get it working logging the VESC UART data to an SD card (and/or over wifi) then will post a rpi image and some more straight-forward instructions.
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Plug into the vesc tool, measure voltage with a good multimeter, track the erpm at full throttle via the real time data, erpm max and throttling set sky high. Always after running motor detection in foc and recalibrating the remote, nothing connected to the motor except the pulley