Archived: the OG noob question thread! 😀

I wonder if the values are calculated (from mfg) are based on 100% duty cycle when the VESC is limited to 95% due to the MOSFET selection apparently https://vesc-project.com/node/169 at 95% a 140kv motor would be reporting 133 (so not quite the 119 you see but it is closer to right), same with the 190kv would be 180.5kv basically assuming we only get to use 95% of the voltage)

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But by that logic both sets of 190kv motors should be similar, the MTO were 151kv and TB were 165kv…that’s still a significant difference

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There are SO MANY factors that affect the KV of a motor, including but not limited to, temperature, variation in magnet strength, variation in magnet size, variation in lamination thickness, variation in interlamination varnish thickness, variation in air gap, variation in flux ring thickness, variation in flux ring permeability. Any one of which could throw the KV off of the “expected” value.

Also: Since the KV is inversely proportional to the turns of wire in the motor, it’s really hard to add E.G. 1/7th of a turn to lower your KV by an arbitrary amount.

Not to mention that the VESC’s built in KV testing method isn’t ideal either because it’s using the motor itself to spin, which means it’s not accounting for the various parasitic loads such as bearings and eddy currents, so the “no load” speed isn’t actually no load.

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Here’s my new Flipsky vesc. It’s made very well. Aluminum case very solid. I love the look of it all black very sleek. The anti spark switch is mounted right on the box. The only problem is how to connect all your wires. They made a little access plate but, made no provisions to be able to feed your wires out of it

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Nifty. I’d drill holes in the plate.

Why do you need to feed wires out of it? That case/design/board is waterproofed, so I wouldn’t go drilling holes in it unless you need to. I was able to fit a remote receiver and a metr in mine, just take off the whole side panel and get creative.

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How else do you get the wires out of the case unless you leave the lid off?

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What wires? :confused:
The phase wires clearly are coming out the bottom, and there is an xt90 for battery in on the top.

Uart, sensor, can?

also PWM

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Yeah, I guess if you need some of that stuff, you’re gonna have to drill. Solid package for a single drive sensorless build though.

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Lol, your killing new smalls :grin:

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How do you control it without drilling? Does a PWM cable come out?

What?

That package’s intention is to be waterproof, pretty much everything you mentioned is not great for a waterproof build. Usually someone buying this would have a good idea of what they were getting and why.

@b264 You plug your uart or pwm in and there is enough room for the wires to curl back into the case where there is room for the receiver(s).

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Is the case metal? You can’t put the receiver antenna inside a Faraday Cage.

Can’t disagree with you there. However, considering the matter at hand, a receiver works perfectly inside this case. I know from experience.

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Is the case metal all around?

It’s aluminum. I can make a video this weekend showing me breaking the laws of physics, but my assertion stands.

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Yes it’s an 1/8th inch thick aluminum.

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@Aeromech787 can I see a pic close up of this section? What happens to be there? A heatsink?

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