Anyone?
Iām worried that the wires getting loose mid ride and throws me off 
Problem is youāre speaking of a product that youāre the only one who has it (other than owners of completes) I want them so bad but too many people want the lonestar so Iām waiting in line
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I simply heatshrinked them. Never came off since I finished my build a few months back.
Otherwise if youāre truly scared, add a few drops worth of solder to hold them shut and put heatshrink on top of that. Atleast thatās what I had planned but mine never came loose 
I was mostly speaking towards the design style of the mounts (vs tensioners or having slots on the motor bolt mount pattern). Itās not unique to LaCroix, as Dexter pointed out. But Iāve found their particular implementation to be pretty flawless so far.
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And this is why Iām in lineā¦ I chatted with jf on rides and the first thing to come out of his mouth was āhave a look at Andrewās buildā and ābe patientā 
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You have no idea what I had to do for those Frenchmen to get ahead.
We all have our price.
Worth it.
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Do I need wrist guards or do the gloves with pucks do the same thing?
Is this octogonal hole elongated?
Gloves with pucks do not do the same thing. I opt for gloves with pucks since wrist guards restrict my movement more than Iād like. But I do risk injuring my wrists more
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Itās at a crazy chamfer at the end of the hangar. Voodoo 6-axis magic.
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Gloves with pucks are for dragging on the ground to slow down or slide through turns but that takes some skill, wrist guards restrict your wrist from moving but protect them to a large degree (they are typically uncomfortable used to use them in roller hockey as a kid)
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Iāve personally had really good luck with Flatland3d Gloves. The pro versions have one-way wrist guards on the rear, which still allow your wrist to bend forward.
I say good luck because Iāve destroyed 2 pairs in a bit over a year, but it was money well spent because my hands and wrists came away unscathed.
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Thanks for pointing it out I havenāt even noticed the chamfer on the hole. I understand why it costs so much, it is expensive to machine the whole thing.
I was actually referring to the hole of the mount it looked elongated because of the angle of the photos and that made me think of the matrix II hangers thats all.
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Yeah, the hanger is machined from a solid block of 7075 aluminum.
I think people get sticker shock at the HyperTrucks, but when you consider that itās essentially a full drivetrain minus motors, itās a pretty amazing value for a high end Carver.
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I used to not understand how people could put such a price tag on parts, like when they released their decks and enclosure at regular price (not the forum GB launch deal).
But now I kinda get it, still not for every parts but this kind of parts machined from blocks of 7075 I get the price tag.
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Has anyone already changed bearings on motors. I am planning on an attempt of battle hardening my motors and was thinking that while they are open I might as well do as much upgrades as I can.
So my question is what brand of bearing should I look for if I want to upgrade the stock ones? Should I consider ceramic?
Thanks man !
I already heat shrunk them + tape but just still a little skeptical with its durability 
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Get them idlers out of that set up. Not necessary. Idlers are for low teeth count belt drives. Those teeny tiny pinions and urethane. Enjoy.
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I did heatshrink them too. Even heavy offroading didnāt do anything.
I would solder them, put sealant on the solder joint, and heatshrink over the sealant before it dries.
A little tip for joining large gauge wires with solder, is to thoroughly tin each one first, only the very tip (donāt strip much insulation back) and then after they are both tinned, cut the ends off perfectly flat with sharp wire cutters, so they both have a flat face. Put the flat faces together and heat until the solder melts.
Of course @DerelictRobot has a reason to think this is shitty and you should never do this, so probably listen to him instead.
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