@b264 Its just a poor man’s wedding ring 
I only remove it to weld things
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I know right…
Sure. but i paid my evolve for 1200 euros and it was quasi new so that is how it got me into diy so i am happy to that i bought it. But very pissed off that i am spending hours to try and fix it.
That may have been the best tip i have ever heard.
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You want a fuse rated a little higher than the current output of your charger, and a higher voltage than the battery at full charge - if you have a 4A charger, 5-6A fuse. 10A charger, 12-15A fuse, etc.
The one Brian posted is perfect.
If you don’t have a fuse, then if you or someone/something else causes a short between the pin and ring of the charge socket on your board, the full battery current will flow through that short, causing smoke, fire, sparks and mayhem.
With a fuse, there will be a little spark, maybe a small pop and your charger won’t charge the board until you replace the blown fuse. No drama, no fire.
Use a fuse.
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This exact thing has saved my boards before. You can even ride the board one more time before you fix it 
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Guys my loopkey is making small ora ge sparks when inserted since the last two days. Any ideas why this happened? XT90S Loopkey sparking when inserted
Does somebody know a good 6s/12s? Lipo charger?
I have 2x 12.000 6s Lipos and it takes for ever to charge them one by one with Just 2.2A because its limited to 80Watts. (imax b6) Would prefer a not so expensive charger.
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will this damage my wheel if I keep using it? I had a quite hard fall today at 50kph and the board surprisingly survived quite well under those circumstances. But it left me with that scratch.
And I also had a wheel that lost a ton of air, but it doesn’t seem to be flat yet.
And I also had a wheel that lost a ton of air, but it doesn’t seem to be flat yet.
Anyone?
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Share the build goal as well if possible.
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For like 100 usd
This diagram îs for discharge bms or for only charge. And The fuse îs on The positive charger port?
And Îs not a big different between The diagram
This for “bypass” where the ESCs are not discharging through the BMS. The lights or accessories, however, should be.
I put the loopkey and fuse on the positive when wiring this way. If you don’t need lights/accessories, then maybe like this
but with a lights/accessories circuit, more like
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I use an AR400 from keenstone and separate ac/DC power supply, can do 500W total so for two 6S can parallel charge at 500 / 25.2V = 19A (limited by charger and max voltage needed). If both are say 5Ah batteries can charge them at full 1C with 10A in 1hr. Pretty sure model I have is discontinued but replaced by other 500W options.
If its only scratch, smoothen it down a bit and that’s it. If there is a crack, replace tge hub ring. You only need half the hub.
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Thankyou. I will use without lights 