Archived: the OG noob question thread! 😀

What is the difference between Trampa HS11 and Carve deck ride wise?

hs11 is wider and longer and sits lower to the ground.

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I saw those but it looks like have a pulley will be a problem??

Any advice on where I can start or where too start :man_shrugging:t4:

I don’t know. Every suspension type truck I’ve heard about except the Baja Board has had bad reviews. As I’m not interested in this, I haven’t pursued it further.

But at a miminum, the truck that is supporting that thing MUST have a NOT-round profile. Otherwise it can just slip around when you hit a bump as it’s relying on grub screws.

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Does anyone know if you’re supposed to use threadlocker on shoulder bolt axles? What type do you use for that? Anyone ever had one come loose while operating the machine?

Anyone know why my multimeter would be giving a bad reading? I left my spare at home so I don’t have another one to use but my Unity, flipsky remote, and charger are all giving me the same, different reading.

I nearly had a heart attack because it said my 10s battery was charged to 46 volts! I gives me a reading about 0.7 volts above normal per cell.

Silver lining is that I think my BMS balance leads had unplugged so I caught that :sweat_smile:

I have the same problem with one of mine, reads 42.2v on a 10s

If the battery in your multimeter is dead, occasionally that is a side-effect.

Better ones should not have that issue.

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I guess your right. I wouldn’t trust it anymore. I’m just surprised because this was my “better” one. Never a dull moment in the DIY world. For a second I was worried my battery was going to explode.

Edit: oops I read too fast, I just need to replace the battery!

Edit 2: It doesn’t have a battery compartment :confused:

Edit 3: It has a silicon sleeve that was covering it - I’m a dingus. Thanks for the help, I really appreciate it.

If you have two, you can use each one to the check the other one’s battery, then swap the batteries and do it again :100:

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It’s mandatory to have a multimeter. It’s really recommended to have more than one. For a true EE, you really ideally want to have at least four - one each for voltage and current on both input and output, so you can get simultaneous power and efficiency readings.

(I have two - A generic cheap autoranging thing that does the usual, and an Uni-T UT210E which has an AC/DC clamp that is absolutely fantastic.)

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I use blue on surfrodz axles just for shits and giggles, comes off fine just give you a little extra peace of mind

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if you are travelling at 40km/h with same specs does

-4100W 6380 170KV
or
-3150W 6374 190KV
motors use more power or is it the same?

Hey, thanks for your help I’m the owner of the battery,
I found that it’s a faulty bms as I managed to get 36 Volt.
Do you know where I can find a bms?

https://www.litechpower.com/product-detail/HCX-D239LI10S08A.html

hey, no problem!
what I found about those cells is that they are only 6A discharge cells:

in your pack, you have discharge rate of only 12A (at best). I guess this battery pack is for some chinese hub board?
First I wanted to suggest that you bypass broken bms and use battery without any bms temporary, but for pack with such low discharge rate, that would be really unhealthy,probably even dangerous.
another bms option is this one from bestech:
https://bestechpower.com/37v10spcmbmspcbforli-ionli-polymerbatterypack/BMS-D725.html
it should be compact enough to fit where your old bms is.

@tinp123 that D725 BMS is dangerous because it has no balancing.

yes, D503v1 had those problems. D725 should be okay.

@b264 sorry didn’t see you are talking about D725. didn’t know it doesn’t have balance function, they mention it on bestech page :confused:

That’s just copy/paste on every BMS page. If you look at the specifications, it has a blank where cell balance current is.