You can adjust startup boost if in BLDC, I found that it helped get a better start
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thought so, thanks!
I’m having a strange little ghost in my board for no apperent reason and maybe one of you knows what’s going on.
When turning on the board the wheel only spins at like 1/10th the power it should and won’t even rotate at all without a spin from the hand while applying power. once it hits a certain rpm all the power will come back and it will work as usual until I push it too hard (like slow speed up a hill) or turn it off/on again and it goes back to it’s low power state. Usually it will fix with the hand spin and some throttle but sometimes it will stay low power even with the hand spin. It won’t spin as fast as it does normally and it only seems to reset randomly. Really annoying.
I don’t remember changing anything that caused this and I went over all the vesc settings to no avail. Seemed normal.
Why are both my boards trying to either kill me or annoy me?
I can grab a video if it helps explain better.
I guess ive missed that setting.
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Try 0.05 or something like that, I have heard people go as high as 0.08
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How to fuse your charge port for dummies?
Since I’ve never done it before I would appreciate some guidance. Maybe someone could do a quick write up? I have these parts:
8A Fuse
Silicone/copper wire
And later on perhaps another epic @b264 tutorial like this one:
Don’t use those fuses, they break really fast from vibrations. Use car fuses, they work much better
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Agreed with @KaramQ, you need a blade type fuse to solder onto. Those can work but suuuuck to solder on.
- make sure power is off
- snip red wire where you want fuse to be
- apply loose heat shrink tubing to cut wire before soldering
- cut a few mm of wire sleeve off to expose wire from both ends of snipped red wire
- put some solder on each end of the snipped red wire
- put some solder on each end of the fuse
- solder red wire - fuse - red wire
- let cool and make sure the connection is strong enough that you can’t pull it off by hand using normal strength
- slide heat shrink tubing over fuse and both red wire solder points
- lighter or heat gun the heat shrink until taut
- drink a beer and/or smoke a bowl with your pants off
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I am never bringing you to the bar 
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Doesn’t stop me from finding you
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I’ve been using these for over 200 miles. They are holding up so far. It’s in a housing though.
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there is one called “exile”. its around 70 euros.
https://www.sickboards.nl/en/brackets/13413-exile-bracket.html
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I used to have that in my board. I switched the one I linked to. Saved me a little more space.
Anyone have some kind of rubber gasket for the wires to recommend? I was looking for some to put between my enclosure and my wires in order to prevent any water damage. I was thinking drilling a hole per ESC wire for a trampa bottom mounted enclosure.
Think you’re probably looking for “grommets” rather than “gaskets” but I’m guessing if the hole is cut to size and the wires are well secured (so they don’t move in the hole too much) then some silicone or other sealer would be good enough.
Personally using 3d printed parts (cover/shell) that mostly fit to my wires and used silicone conformal coating recently to cover parts of the PCB I thought might be subject to shorts (areas around the phase wires and over any of the surface mount IC pins).
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So should I drill those holes accordingly to the size of my esc’s wire? Because I do have 5.5mm bullet holes connector on my ESC, and they are way larger than my wires. So do I need to un-solder and solder the wires back again to my ESC to have everything flush with the enclosure?
Sorry not sure I’m understanding entirely maybe some pictures of current setup would help. In my case the phase wires coming from the ESC go out of the box and have bullet connectors to hook up to the motor outside the enclosure (this way can disconnect the enclosure/ESC from the motor externally if I need to take things off for testing or cleaning or whatever.