I think I might have a broken magnet, Iāve never opened one of these up beforeā¦Do I need to disconnect the motor from the vesc to open it up? I only ask because it would be a b*tch to remove all the wire guards from the phase wires to disconnect them, would rather avoid this if possible. Also how do I remove the c-clip?
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Do any of these magnets look broken to you guys? The inside of this can looks fine to me I canāt figure out why my motors making this fucking noise!
They donāt look broken, but theyāve definitely been rubbing a bit. How tight of a fit was the shaft in the can?
Replacing the stock set screws with some class 12.9 ones can help, and loctite 680 as well.
I noticed in your earlier video that the can seemed a bit wobbly, and guessing by all the marks on the outside itās been hitting stuff pretty constantly, and so it may have basically wobbled out the shaft hole in the back of the can. Iād try using some shims or something to make sure the can is perfectly centered on the stator/shaft, replacing the screws with class 12.9 cup-point setscrews and then adding some loctite 680 and letting it set up overnight. If thatās the problem then that should fix it, but it may not be a permanent solution - loctite is only so strong. You may end up having to get a fresh can or maybe a new motor.
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Do you have an esk8 already or will this be your first?
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Is there a magic way to get alienpowersystems to answer emails? Its been over a week with no response on why my order placed on the 9th of july is still āprocessingā they claimed in the last email that all July orders were being packaged and shipped a week ago.
Is their tracker just bad?
The order was simple, just 2 motors that were in stock. Anyone know what might be wrong? I want to give APS the benefit of the doubt here, but Iām getting a tad bit worried
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Yep
This is the not-as-good way
And this is the best way Iāve found
And none of this is specific to TB motors ā I have yet to find any esk8 motor where this isnāt a weak spot
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Iām looking at
I know QC with Flipsky is a bit of a gold mine but what do you think about this running say a 12s4p samsung 30q and two 6374 (95kgs) @wafflejock
oh damn, this one seems feasible for me.
what are the 4 bolts attaching to on the other end of the can?
They just hold the aluminum on there, and the aluminum just holds the key that I added
![[20190717_124457]](https://esk8-news-objects.s3.dualstack.us-east-1.amazonaws.com/uploads/original/3X/4/9/49bc0a468acd41038fb787519fcf46d6dd1a892e.jpeg){kind=link}
I milled a slot in the back across the shaft and dropped a key in it
But I prefer the other way I showed which holds against slip in 2 axis instead of one axis like this
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Couldnāt you just use a larger tap on the stripped holes? Or tap 2 new ones on the spots perpendicular? (Referring to @whaddys issue)
I think the hole is wobbled out enough that even repairing/replacing the setscrews is at best a temporary fix. The shaft should be a press fit in the can - thatās what provides the registration and rigidity. The screws are just there to prevent rotation or axial movement. Without that registering fit, even if he fills the gap with a retaining compound, itāll never be as rigid as before.
Iād get a brand new can and a new shaft (They most likely come assembled) and be done with it.
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I agree 100%, I would just buy a new motor alltogether myself, he seems adamant though.
i dont know i asked them a question about there product a month ago and they havent gotten back to me
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ive tested out a freinds and the most i can handle is 35 mph yes it will be my first and i need a deck over 35 inches i would also like it to be an offroad board
awesome ! Thx for the inspiration 
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Sounds okay couple of things to note though. 12S is pushing it pretty close to the limit of the components on the PCB so 10S is usually a nice safe middle ground (generally enough speed for most people at this voltage with the right kv motor and not getting as close to the component limits). Think general consensus is around 245kv motors or above then 10S is good. If running 190kv or lower then 12S can work and be relatively safe with regard to max eRPM the MOSFET driver needs to open the gates for power to flow through each coil (above 60k eRPM is known to blow DRV8302 chip on older VESCs the newer ones I think use a different version of the DRV but still wouldnāt push my luck with this)
Oh also regarding cells in parallel this just comes down to max discharge of the cells in question and the max discharge you want to set on your battery, also more cells in parallel less draw from any cell so less voltage sag while the cells are having amps drawn from them (under load).
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I prefer 190Kv on 10S
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Currently running 190kv on 10s and loving it. Only upgrading to 12s for the offroading and big hills.
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I have that with VX1 and a METR Pro on dual hubs at 10s, itās running as smooth as can be so far
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Are knots in a wire ok As long as they are not tight
I would like to know for the phase cables