Archived: the OG noob question thread! 😀

Yeah, @Flasher is probably right. Set up your PWM (“PPM”) pulselength center/min/max in the VESC Tool. Maybe increase your deadband by 2% only if you can’t correct the center point.

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I did calibrate the remote with the build in calibrator of the remote, I will try to increase the deadzone of the throttle, see if that helps.

I’m not using the PPM mode of the remote, but I’m using UART signals. How would that apply in this mode?

If you’re using UART then pulselength is not applicable.

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Make sure during calibration that your center is dead center. Completely stupid he (wajdi) decided it was logical to click the joystick during calibration. Otherwise, increase deadband a good number. Test it. if no cogging decrease the deadband till it works for your needs :slight_smile: I can’t help you much for now… kinda having a small problem with my photon.

It even likes imaginary chargers ever since the fire

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Yeah the click during calibration is pretty stupid. Did you give your photon a paint job?

Increasing the deadzone did not help, it still happens. The issue also happens when not in the neutral zone. I also happens when braking or running the motor. If it happens when the motors are spinning acts as a brake.

almost positive it’s 14 poles, most motors for esk8 are

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I’m at a loss there. If it’s not the remote, I’m not the right person for ya :joy:

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Why do these kind of weird issues always happen to me :joy:

Hopefully somebody else can help me with this then

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@DSluijk
Many can. Just be patient till someone more knowledgeable sees this and tells how easy it was to repair :stuck_out_tongue:

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Easiest way is hook it up to a tachometer and give it a known voltage input max throttle an ESC with known input and calculate the kv https://youtu.be/IP4PFq6u7wg

Any suggestions on how to fix this issue?

is this a mounting clamp or mounting plate or hanger issue?

Run the motor up to maximum unburdened RPM, measure ERPM in vesc tool, divide by your battery voltage under load, and divide that by your pole pairs. Should get you a reasonable estimate.

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Is your belt trying to wander, or is it staying put? Spin the wheel both ways about 5 turns and check.

If the belt is staying put I wouldn’t worry about it.

If your belt is wandering, then the solution is to tweak the mount on your truck until everything is nice and square and doesn’t wander.

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Can you push the motor pulley in any more? I just aligned and realigned my board today, I very much feel your pain right now.

Agree with @MysticalDork (as usual, jerk) about the belt wandering though. I usually get a bit of wander but as long as it doesn’t walk off the edge of the wheel pulley at all, it doesn’t bother me.

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sure but there’s no shoulder on the outside of that pulley to pull the belt inward with the pulley. This is the natural way the belt wants to fall

Noob question here! I have a Flipsky Dual FSESC4.20 controller, and both groups of 3 motor output cables are black. I also have Flipsky 6354 motors, which have colored wires and terminate in an MT60 connector. Does the order matter when connecting the motor to the ESC?

Nope. If the motor spins the wrong way, you can either reverse it in software, or swap any two wires.

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I put the wheel+pulley on the axle without a spacer washer and clamp the mount onto the truck so the motor mount plate is up against and touching the wheel pulley, pressed up against it. Secure the motor mount right there. Then once the mount is installed, take the wheel off and add a 1mm washer for clearance

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HELL yeah

A friend of mine says this can be because the motors are running sensorless (which they aren’t). Could this be at play here? I did another calibration, which gave me wildly different numbers at the lambda part.