Archived: the OG noob question thread! 😀

We tease @Halbj613 a lot, but he offers any help he can provide to anyone who needs it. That’s pretty cool.

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Those value are for the FlipSky 4.20 dual. I would try the following values.

Motor Current Max : 40A
Motor Current Max Brake : -40a
Battery Current Max : 50A
Battery Current Max Regen : -40A
Absolute Maximum Current : 100A

Increase the motor and battery max until you get cutout. Or leave them alone if its fast enough for you.

In my experience the wizard gives unusable values on Maytech and FlipSky VESC’s.

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@mmaner
Whoops, I goofed. Its the dual 4.20 100a with two 6374s. I forgot single is a viable and popular thing lol. Will do on the gradual increase of motor and batt max.

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Yes
No
Yes

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You want to turn the motor slower than that, and for longer.

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Brother, there is an entire thread :smiley:

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Yes, or it was soldered without a male and female being connected together. That holds the pins straight while it cools.

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I’ve found no use to set this to anything other than the maximum it will allow you to set it at, typically 150A

As far as I understand, the only thing that setting does is {throw faults and hence} cut your brakes at the most inopportune time. The DRV hardware already has overcurrent protection.

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Why does the upper half of my throttle do pretty much nothing? VX1 split PWM

I’m not sure if I am already going full speed, or something else is up.
It is weird to stop accelerating at just past half throttle.

We just wanted a photo for now, BRIAN. :kissing_heart:

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@b264
Why is that?
Seems Im a real Noob when it comes to electricity. When the resistor is connected by plugging in the Xt90s, the circuit is closed and so current flows through it.
The same happens when the Xt90s is always plugged in and you use a switch connected to it for example.
I see it has something to do with the first moment of contact, but how is the effect changed by just closing the cirquit via a switch rather than plugging the xt90s

I thought I would ride my build for the first time today. Went to fill up the tires and the valve stems are leaking where they go into the inner tubes. Six Shooters. Where is the best place to get inner tubes that will fit?

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The XT90S has two bands as you can see inside

So it connects the resistor only momentarily then shorts it out so it’s no longer in the circuit. The resistor is only in the circuit for a number of milliseconds while you physically push the plug in.

There isn’t an easy way to do that with a toggle switch, and I’ve only seen one custom slide switch that had a similar effect and heard nothing more about it since then.

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Got it, so it’s the sliding in first contact having the resistance preventing a spark and the plugged in state being just shorted!
Thanks!

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China or Dave as far as I know. That sucks.

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How many do you need? I may have 2 spares.

Damnit, I forgot about those phase wire extension too. I’m such a dick, sorry dude.

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No problem on the wires. I ordered the bullet connectors and soldered my own. Unfortunately all four inner tubes are leaking. Definitely a design issue with the opening for the stems being too tight and with a sharp corner on the inner edge.

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I’ll dig through mine, I think I only have 2 though. Another option is MBS wheels with Metroboard 155mm tires or TB Nummies. Both are good options.

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Have you checked your Pulselength Mapping in ESC tool?

If you use RT APP data you can see what your ESC sees when you use the throttle, though I recommend setting Control Type to Off and writing it so your motors don’t spin up when you engage the throttle.

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