Archived: the OG noob question thread! šŸ˜€

Not with 15mm belts :slight_smile:

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Just did around 35+km/h and felt some sort of rubberbanding, has anybody felt something like that?

The banding were short impulses multiple times until i let go of the throttle.

dual 4.12
dual 6374 on 8"

Also how do i improve braking at the beginning? It starts soft and gets more aggressive the closer i am to stopping. Yes i adjusted the curve and almost broke my ankle doing it. Lets say i put the brake on 10%, it starts braking very ineffective, even after increasing the brake to 60% it doesnā€™t braje stronger. 2m before i stop it pulls harder

Even if i brake fairly hard

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Agree totally about your corrections but just to add a bit of info about CAN bus. It isnā€™t that CAN bus itself is bad itā€™s generally better than a lot of other basic serial signal transmission techniques/protocols and is used widely in cars and other places where communication between subsystems is necessary and you want to eliminate any central point of communication failure.

https://www.csselectronics.com/screen/page/simple-intro-to-can-bus/language/en

The problem is when the VESC is using CANbus then one controller is acting as the brains for both basically and if that brain goes bad or does something strange say while trying to maintain traction or even velocity on each motor, or something else, it can burn out both of the ā€œmusclesā€

In a car I believe each CANbus component is made to operate on itā€™s own and validates the data coming in using itā€™s own internally configured limits etc. But speculating the VESC master slave configuration hands over more control to the master VESC than an ā€œordinaryā€ CANbus setup.

Disclaimer Iā€™ve not used CANbus extensively (nor dual VESCs) but I know it is widely used in automotive and robotics (FIRST robotics competitions at least used to get equipment from ā€œnational laboratoriesā€ and use CANbus between components).


Also if hooking up CANbus with VESCs need to avoid hooking the power and GND between each or can potentially cause some electrical issues.

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Iā€™ve experienced this too! At high speed, brakes arenā€™t as effective until around almost stopping speeds where the motor noise changes drastically and the braking becomes hard. I know itā€™s not my gearing or belts anything too because I run DDs :stuck_out_tongue:

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Exactly this!

Posted this on pictures and nothing else but is this safe? They are PETG angled risers to convert angles between normal boards and mountain boards. Iā€™m concerned due to the angle, instead of compression forces which 3d prints can handle, itā€™s shear forces. Also, the designer used m4 bolts. Are those a little too thin for casual skating?


image
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It might work but iā€™d say itā€™s gonna break on the part where the truck is mounted. Either there or where the nuts are.

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I donā€™t remember where I heard this and I think some more experience builders/riders can speak to this but I remember hearing that the vesc inherently has poor braking at low speeds but better braking at high speeds however it seems like our experience is the exact opposite lol

What vesc are you using? Iā€™m using a dual vesc from esk8supplies

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this.

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Hello everyone!

Iā€™m building an electric scooter with

24v 350W 12 inch BLDC Wheel
2x 12v 9Ah (in series) Lead Acid Batteries
4.12 50A VESC
ā€œSingle Wayā€ Throtle (Conected in ADC)
Nrf51_Vesc

and apply some configs to get to work but iā€™m worried if i miss some configs, specially on the motor settings, can somebody tell me wich details i have to pay attention?

Having a Lead Acid Batteries, can i use the regen brake? how can i config the throttle to get a portion to acelerate and the another to brake?

Thanks in advance for any answer 0_<

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Hereā€™s another scooter-focused resource if you donā€™t get enough answers here:

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewforum.php?f=10

Iā€™ve seen an aluminum angled riser on this forum that looked like it tore. sorry, I canā€™t find it right now. I think it might have been @Linny

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yeah I remember seeing that too and I feel the general consensus there is that unless it was made of aluminum (not even wood was okay) vibrations and cyclic stress over time wear would cause failures. I ask here again because these are more beefy than what I remembered was posted. Also concerned about m4 bolts being a little bit on the thin side

Found it: Mounting non-MBS trucks on MBS board?

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That will fail so hard

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Was this your max speed full throttle?

Check your erpm limit. You might be hitting it and should increase it.

You can increase braking by decreasing motor min from -60 to eg -80.

Batt min will effect high speed braking. Motor min will affect low speed braking.

Also if you are riding direct drive Iā€™d recommend current app settings instead of current with reverse since it will improve braking.

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Could you expand on which type of failure Iā€™m looking at? Is it the wedge shattering or the screw holes breaking or the screw itself shearing?

Never went that far while riding.

ERPM is 44563 (max speed is set at 50km/h) but iā€™m 10-15km/h below that.
Motor current max is 70a
Battery max 60a

Drive system is Belt 15/72

banding happened roughly between15:50 and 15:51 oā€™clock

Would you say 12mm is the widest you could get away with?

Yup, thatā€™s how it works, pretty simple thing to use