It completely baffles me how anyone could confuse these lmao
BLDC unsensored is garbage lol
Sounds like improper calibration and hitting the edge of the braking deadband
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Should I get the assembled Davega or the kit? Can’t decide.
Do want it to be plug and play but more expensive
Or
Assemble it yourself and save a few bucks.
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After watching the assembly video, I’ll probably just buy an assembled one. Don’t wanna risk breaking anything.
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I know, it was my first time 
never knew anything else but BLDC, ever. Rode it yesterday after reconfiguration and it was kinda like… you know when you were finally in. That shit is smooth as fuck.
Puck
Could be, I fucking was tired of that tool fucking up constantly, once it worked I might have rushed it.
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I chose the plug and play but I wished the buttons were soldered to the tiny wires
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My bet is also a bad calibration. Re-do the remote wizard and make sure you set the start, mid and endpoints correct.
(Once you get my metr it’ll be easier 
)
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Yep this
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God bless your kind soul my friend 
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Don’t you just move the trigger all the way to the front and all the way to the back and the values appears and you hit “Apply”?
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Ya that should be it
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I remember the center was oscillating a tiny bit, is there something wrong with my remote?
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Nah if it’s less than a couple hundredths of a ms you’re fine
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I will redo it anyways, i hope it won’t take the whole night to launch the wizard this time.
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Can’t seem to get any better for my enclosure lmao. So I decided to add the rust oleum painters touch clear coat. But since the paint I used was krylon for the design. It started to wrinkle the paint, luckily in one spot. So just gonna add a little bit of paint but I do not want to risk it for the rest of it since I tested a little spot. Should I get the krylon clear coat? Will it have a similar outcome for the paint or should it be good
I would say you probably have a much better chance of success with matching-brand paint and primers.
Different brands (and also different product lines) can have significant differences in the solvent and curing formulations, which can make them wrinkly or otherwise incompatible as you’ve found out firsthand.
It’s best to read the can of base paint, and it’ll probably say “for maximum protection, clearcoat with suchandsuch” or something similar. Use whatever it says.
There are other things to consider, like some paints want to either be recoated within an hour, or after 24 hours, and it’ll wrinkle if recoated in between.
Again, read and follow the instructions on the can, and that will help.
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Yep. Even in general I had my eyes set on the krylon clear, luckily it was just one part, which doing a small test was good because I wasn’t sure it was going to work or not. For sure I’ll be getting the krylon clear, fixing that one part and it should be good
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Something happened that should not have.
Connector to the hoyt reciever to plug right in to stormcore without adapter. But what connector is this, ad how do i attach a new one?
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Impossible to tell from the photo. You need to measure the center-to-center pitch between the pins, then consult this chart: JST connector - Wikipedia
Or you could check the stormcore documentation, it might tell you what connector it is there as well.
Once you know what the connector is, then you can buy a premade pigtail (wires with crimped terminals already installed in the housing), or a pre-crimped kit (wires w/terminals, and a bunch of empty housings you can install them into), or you can buy a crimper and some terminals and housings, and crimp your own.
You will either need a soldering iron and the skills to use it, or a crimping tool and the skill to use that.
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Out of curiosity do you have any suggestion for which is the better noob option? My instinct is definitely soldering but that’s probably because I can do that fairly well and have very limited experience crimping
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