Be honest, how was it left? What volt battery was it connected to? How was wiring management? Were all connectors shielded?
To be fair, it is flipsky. And even though they have stepped up their game, they still do have product that sneaks through quality check and just die.
Try for a replacement. If they dont give it to you then get the refund.
Also, what antispark was it?
12s battery
wiring management was pretty decent (quite a lot of wires but all quite tidy)
all connectors shielded properly
the switch light keeps turning on by itself (i turn it off and then it turns back on like 5 seconds later by itself (it doesnt turn off even when the switch light is off though))
will do
Adventure Time!
Been telling a local dude to make an acct here to stop asking me questions that I don’t have direct experience with but he refuses so I’ll ask for him.
He’s trying to get a hoyt puck set up with my old unity and it’s giving him weird phantom input.
Any ideas from you puck users? The unity was working fine with both of my previous remotes.
Only idea I’ve got is that one of the wires on the pot doesn’t have a complete connection. Maybe needs a re-solder
Is the puck ppm or uart?
PPM
He apparently already bought a new puck and it worked immediately so he must have just got a lemon 
Your VESCs have too much capacitance, they are triggering the roll to start on their own. You’ll have to return it
So, I’ve got the minimum height I need with 1” worth of risers from MBS. It is serviceable for now, and will be ideal when my Five Star hubs and 9” tires arrive. A big thank you to @Bigdaddyhawk who has been kind enough to vet my questions and suggested the move to 9”.
The deck upgrade to the Trampa Big Boi was worth it. Even though the 16-ply was a little flexier than I expected, the ride is way smoother and turning feels great. I definitely have more confidence riding this deck.
On the hunt now for 72t pulleys that bolt to the five stars.
My question/idea now is about the plastic I am now riding on. Seems like these have been in use for years and are pretty reliable, but an inch is “up there” a bit and I was wondering how plausible it might be to get some carbon fibre plate and stack them. I can get a 200x300mm sheet at 5mm thick.
That means cutting it into 78x54mm squares at 5mm each I’d need to stack 4-5 on each end. I’d just have to manage to successfully cut it and drill the four holes but I have the current risers as a template.
Is this an insane idea? Overkill?
I could also make them slightly larger and gain back some of the surface area I lost going from the mbs-clone footprint to the rectangle.
Could also make a custom spacer out of a block of wood. You could match the footprint of the baseplate easily, and it’s way easier to work with than CF.
I believe LaCroix has some that may fit. Not sure who else makes 72t pulleys that are in stock (MBS seems to have been out of them for a while now)
I sent a msg to @IDEA - if I’m paying anyhow, his work looks every bit as nice. Based on the price for two pulleys from LaCroix I’m trying to figure out why they would paint them black after machining them out of solid gold.
Maybe dumb question, the antispark loop can be on any wire right ? With 2 lipo in serial, can it be on the wire between the lipos ?
Technically it would still open the circuit, but is there any side effect ?
@Anubis @Halbj613
It’s indeed the too much capacitance. This can be fixed with a simple circuit. All you need is a 5V Relais and a couple of resitors.
@Blise518B did it like this:
Oh hell no. That’s looks like trouble. I’d 3d print a riser to at least cover the baseplate. It needs to be wider/longer. I wouldn’t worry about it being plastic. I have 2" of risers. Get it made from ABS. You can also design it to hold mounts like for a headlight. It will be nice with 9s
I’m glad I am not the only one who is bothered by the loss of surface area contact due to the different profiles in the mbs-clone truck-top footprint and the traditional riser shape (which is just a rectangle).
I even considered putting egg-shocks or rubber stoppers on either side (there is a pre-drilled hole centered directly above the open truck-top space on either side. It’s kinda perfect).
I also found someone who made channel-truck shaped anti-sink plates…and I thought I could stack those 5 per side to get to roughly 25mm, but that gets expensive at $15-$30 apiece.
I may actually stop in at a local machine shop and see if they could make me something out of aluminum (heavy?) or CF (much lighter) or whatever else they might suggest, providing it is not cost-prohibitive.
I don’t have a 3D printer, but I know someone who does.
thanks man
is there a way to just turn push to start off?
i dont need it and cant be bothered buying all different bits to fix
nah i dont think so…
Just don’t be lazy and fix it the right way. Partscost is less than 3 pounds lol