Can concur.
Get you some better tools @Halbj613 lol
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not gonna lie
we are finally chopping the tree at the back of the garden and building a workshed (hopefully)
i cant wait to get hands on all the tools im stocking up for there
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FTFY lol
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Please don’t chop your limbs off or poke your eyes out.
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Hello to all as this is my first post here. I am looking at a DIY build and found my way here. It has been a steep learn and a whole lot more than I initially thought but in a good way. I have a subsonic century kicking around that is line for the treatment. It has had a quiet time of it since I got a subsonic spirit which is such a fun board. I have made some headway into this project just by digging around a bit on here but still a lot of ground to cover which I will get through in good time. To get things started however I was hoping for some specific advice regarding motor brackets and Don’t Trip Poppys. Can anyone advise on a suitable bracket for these trucks and if I am going to have enough width for a two motor installation. They are the 152-170mm version. I have seismic alphas on this board at the moment but thinking is Kegels. Any comments are greatly appreciated. Beyond that I got numerous questions but I will dig around here a bit more before I start up with more questions.
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probably not. For 6355mm motors minimum, you need around ~61mm for the motor, 9mm for the motor mount, 15mm for the pulley, and I believe 10mm for the wheel overhanging the hanger? So that’s 95mm x 2 = 190mm hanger you want minimum. And if you go for pulleys with integrated bearings (which imho are a must unless you’re a masochist), then add an additional 10mm on each side. Anyway, what I’m saying is you’ll need new trucks, unless you go with hub motors or single drive 
But you’re lucky you have a century, because you can get an eboosted enclosure that’ll perfectly match it.
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Many thanks. Given I only have 152mm of hanger to play with it’s a tight fit at best. For the pulley bearing it shares the axle with wheel is that correct? If I went with a single motor will the 10 degree rear angle help mitigate torque steer. I really love my splits and want to use them if possible.
less common config might be workable, (ignoring the fact if there is motor mount available for that truck) u can do 1 forward mount and 1 rear mount for dual rear drive, or the even less common config of dual diagonal drive.
depending on the truck profile, it might be possible to get loaded hubs or neohubs on it
if u aren’t that keen on a dual drive, u can do single drive with big motor and run super single on it (if u decide this is the route to go, @b264 is the man u want to talk to)
e: don’t be afraid of asking questions, also, there is no stupid question
Great minds. I was just looking at a build with forward and rear facing motors. I think the century has plenty of real estate for this to work.
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it might be less than what u think u have, since u need to account for the lean when turning
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Technically it should I suppose. I still feel it a bit with my 10 degree dewedge though. But only when I’m not concentrating – if I’m expecting to accelerate or brake, I hardly even notice it 
Muscle memory is funny that way
Hi guys. Im programming a Flipsky 4.20 Dual Plus which I have installed into a Leiftech V2. Does anyone happen to have a screen shot of what I need to enter into the boxes in VESC tool. Or does anyone just know the information I need regarding the Leiftech V2 and its battery. Literallly no idea what im doing, sometimes it spins motors, sometimes it doesnt. Also have a controller issue but one thing at a time 
This is my other issue. When I have managed to get the motors to spin after motor set up and the controller does work only 1 wheel will spin. I found this on the Flipsky website and when checking vesc tool version it shows 3.00. How do I update to a newer version past 3.00? Hopefully that is the solution to my next issue
4.Using dual FSESC V4/V6, why only one motor can be controlled only by VX2 remote?
(1) Please check your firmware version. The old vesc tool (before 3.40 version) cannot achieve the synchronous UART signal communication and supports one side only. While the new firmware supports and can control both sides when plug in one side only.
Is there a batteries for dummies guide I can try to understand 
I’m trying to understand the logic behind my fully charged battery being 54.5V and battery cutoff starts at 44.2V.
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The battery cutoff is where discharge starts being cut off, not where charge starts being cut off.
That I understand. I’m wondering if 10 Volts is the entire capacity of my battery. And when my Metr pro says 50% charge is that untill the pack is completely drained or untill cutoff.
Depends on the battery config, but for a single Li-Ion cell full would be 4.2V and empty would be around 3-ish V. The battery should never actually reach 0V, so 10V of differential sounds reasonable for your battery capacity.
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3.3
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When i check my logs, my 12s4p battery sags about 4volts when i go full throttle. As long as the voltage sag doesnt go below the 12*3.2= 38.4v is it fine?