Anyone have suggestions for trucks for an analog Bustin Sportster? I’m thinking maybe TKP
Downhill or freeride? Do you ever want to be able to covert it to electric? Even consider it? Or have parts be reusable for electrics? What’s your budget?
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- Downhill or freeride?
freeride
- Do you ever want to be able to covert it to electric?
it’s not a priority
- Even consider it?
absolutely
- Or have parts be reusable for electrics?
no spare electronics
- What’s your budget?
$50-150
I personally would check out the Boardnamics 145 hangers and try to find some Caliber / Randal / Paris baseplates somewhere.
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I’m partial to Paris V3s, 180mm to rail match the board. I’m not sure TKPs are a great choice for that deck or freeride, since the wheelbase is so long and it’s dropped, so you’ll need larger wheels if you go TKP in order to not scrape. Throw on some 69mm snakes and it’s a potent combo.
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I’ve got some 85mm cags on order. Agreed on the 180mm - i think the 145 hangers will be too skinny
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any chain drive pro here that knows where I can find a sprocket that’ll fit 100mm wheels?
The 145 hangers have extra long axles, so they can also be set up in a wider configuration. They’re very flexible. You can also run them as a 180 or 185 probably even. The 145mm is a minimum.
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I think my hoyt remote is now kicking the bucket after that drop that happened earlier. It’s now cutting off when I ride. Is there a way to fix this or do I have to buy a new pcb for it?
After seeing my board just automatically run towards a fence at full speed, I conclude that my hoyt pcb is indeed broken. Gotta wait for that part now. Yayyyy.
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I dont like the buttons facing outwards on my hoyt puck. I honestly really miss the boosted remote shape. But I mostly just miss my mirror I put on it. I didn’t have to twist around to check behind me anymore and I felt so much safer and more confident ever since. So. If I were to turn my puck around in my hand and then do the vesc remote setup thingy, only using the dial the other way, the buttons would be out of my way and it would work how I want. Im going to do it anyways, but are there any theoretical drawbacks to using my throttle wheel the opposite way intended? Would it be worthwhile to open it up and flip it around?
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It’ll feel a bit weird, but you’re basically putting it from a left handed postion to your right hand (or vice versa) if you hold the R function. Just be sure not to mush the power button I guess.
I’ve considered that and figured if I run brake/reverse mode or whatever its called I could just throw some kind of closable lid over the buttons at worst.
Then you should be good. Just set it up normally, then press and hold the button below the power button. It’ll be in reverse and should be what you are going for.
Good good good. I felt like I lost my spider sense suddenly not being able to look behind me before a turn without twisting around.
My Sportster is running Bear Grizzly 180mm trucks and Orangatang “In Heat” wheels (baby blue). Super sweet ride, though I need to upgrade the bushings from the stock Bear ones.
The In Heat’s are the largest diameter wheel from orangatang that dont have a core, so I figured they are the most 'thane for the most cushy ride. I was right, they are incredibly soft, and their geometry adds to the cushyness.
I wanted to force myself to keep this analog board analog, so I purposefully got a set of trucks/wheels that would be extremely inconvenient to electrify, so that my chances of breaking down and doing that will remain small haha.
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BN enter the chat
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After carefully checking out what had happened, it seems that the motor wires slightly took off the servo connector. It seems to be working better than before. But I will hold on to the pcb order just incase. Thank goodness the remote is still kicking though. But I will have to rewire the receiver placement.
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So it was ur receiver problem rather than remote?
Sounds like a loose white PWM wire
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