12S5P and 10S6P will have the same range, because it’s the same number of cells. In fact, the lower top speed of the 10S battery will likely increase its range a little above the 12S one because wind resistance is proportional to the square of speed
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I just started practicing soldering, and am having trouble getting 10awg into the xt90 hole.
Is it ok if the wires don’t go unto the socket, but are entirely in the little “cup” part of the connector?
This is my latest attempt, I think I may have used too much solder?
Also whatever I do I can never get the finish to be nice and shiny when the solder hardens. On every attempt it comes out dull.
Is this indicative of a cold solder joint? I have used pliers to try and yank the joint apart but I have not been able to yet, so it is definitely connected pretty good.
I am using maiyum 63/37.
did u pre tin both the wire and the socket before joining them together?
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No, you want copper all the way to the back of the socket. Twist the wire up tighter, I’ve never had a problem getting 10AWG in an XT90. It might help if you insert it straight and then try to do the 90° bend once the copper is in place.
You are lacking heat, the solder is not flowing properly. What iron are you using?
Your joints also look like they could benefit from more flux. Is this solder rosin-core?
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i did a whoopsies 
sorry.
this is correct
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more series = more power more range and more faster (increase in watts, increase in wh, increase in max speed)
more parralel = more range and more power (more Ah and more watts)
i thought this is correct
more series will still up your range and your power
Series will increase your efficiency with power. For example, 5S at 20A = 10S at 10A. So if you go from 10s to 12s at the same amperage, it will have more power.
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exactly therefore series will also increase power and range as well as parallel
Should I be getting the 0.6" or 0.75" bushings from riptide for BN’s new adjustable baseplates? Or another size? Or it doesn’t matter?
btw, these look like fake xt90.
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Yes, that seems fine. See this graph, a full cell at 10A drops to ~3.85 and stays there.
That’s nearly 1v/cell at 12s, which is definitely too much IMO.
If it’s not the cells themselves, then it’s gotta be something else in the path. Wires, tabs, solder joints, connections.
I would suggest assembling the whole pack, putting it under load, and trying to see what gets hot. That extra voltage has got to go somewhere, and it’s being burned off as heat. So whatever’s hottest is where the most resistance is.
I’ve never used a NESE pack, so maybe someone with more experience with those can chime in as to whether they sag more than welded packs.
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would it be a good idea to make a commuter board from a 27" board?
I only have the board so far (need parts ideas, on the cheap if It’s a good idea )
Number of cells increases range. Not typically any S or P counts, for the most part.
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Those are fake XT90 as @xsynatic mentioned. You want Amass brand XT90 next time. Those are okay-ish but kinda suck too.
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It’s too short IMHO, look at my build threads. 30" to 31.5" is perfect IMHO
I’m 5’8" / 172cm tall for reference
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okay got it, unless I have a death wish right ?
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Be like me, make an electric 22" pennyboard 
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I do have my carver that I have to take appart and I still want to try the mini spring trucks on the tiny deck for some reason I do have a slight death wish for your information
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the only connection i have not resoldered so far is the connection on the stormcore itself, other than that i resoldered the whole path to make sure 
but anyways, how would i go about putting the system under load? my enclosure can not be taken off quickly after riding - and i would assume that without actual rider weight it wont be enough to trigger any heating up of connections
i really wish i had a thermal image camera
Thank you for all the responses guys.
Yes I did. I tried doing a trick I read on here, where if it came out dull you could put more flux on it with some more solder and that would help, but it did not haha. (that’s why it looks caked on in some sections)
Gotcha, I gotto be doing something wrong. For whatever reason, whenever I go to push the wire into the socket, the strands fray out.
Very good idea, I will try this next.
I am using the ts100 with a c4 chisel tip at around 350c, guess I gotto bump it up to 380/400?
Yeah it is rosin core, that is strange, because I thought I used a lot of flux already. Maybe what I thought is a lot is not
It is SRA rosin flux.
Yeahhh I realized that a couple days ago too.
I bought them maybe 2 years ago on amazon and have quite a few so I have been using them for practice.
I would never recommend these for anything but cheap practice, the second you add heat the pin becomes so loose in the connector that I can flick the 90* wire and it’ll go spinning.
The brand is LHI.
Where do you guys go for the genuine connectors?
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