That’s not a girl… That’s dream.
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Epoxies are formulated to be as stiff as possible. Flexibility isn’t usually a desirable trait. You have ridden a Trampa deck, yes?
Isnt the Trampa deck made of basalt
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Trampa just uses heavy fiberglass roving. It’s hard to convey just how flexible a Trampa deck is.
edit: jump on a Trampa hard enough, and it will hit the ground in the middle. Kaly NYC is who uses basalt. Kaly decks are uber stiff, and yet, thinner, but that’s mostly a result of the layup, and fibers chosen.
Not always, check out West System 650
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I should have said “most”. Hehe. This 650 stuff is pretty interesting, but it’s another super expensive option: https://www.amazon.com/West-System-6502G-Epoxy-Gal-Kit/dp/B0186MF3UK
2 gallon kit, $350 US.
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looks good to me.
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2 questions:
1 - It appears the hall sensor on my Flipsky 6374’s is a smaller plug than the socket on my Dual FSESC6.6 (definitely looking at the right socket). Is there a connector for this?
2 - Will this 5.5mm wire extender save me some soldering? Motor is 6374 (battle hardened) and esc is Dual FSESC6.6 based on VESC6 with heatsink. Wire Extensions 5.5mm to 5.5mm – DIY Electric Skateboard
Thanks
ESC Sensor Wires 6 Pin Pitch Compatible with VESC | Flipsky.net – FLIPSKY may help me with the hall sensor problem?
Yes. is ur motor the one with the ridges on the shell? If so this is it.
Also use the bullet adapters as some motors use weird ass wire that isn’t meant to be soldered to.
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Hobby wing wires.
I tried searching here and the old .builders but I only saw vague mentions from like 2015 so if this has already been answered please link me
Using my usual stupid approach of buying cheap stuff to get to a minimum viable build and then slowly upgrading everything, I’m now running a board with a focbox unity and my original generic cheapo 5065 motor. I was going to splash and buy a pair of maytechs but I ended up buying just one off here because it was closer to me and cheap. Did not think through whether running two very different motors (I don’t even have the Kv of the first motor because it was part of a full kit on aliexpress but my guess is 270 because it has terrible starting torque but goes reasonably quickfast.
Is this a no go? I don’t particularly mind if I can only use this maytech for a while and have to wait around for another one because it will still be quite a big upgrade, but I didn’t even think about it until now
As a sort of follow up, are there best practices or rules of thumb for what’s acceptable difference? I just spotted another very similar maytech motor here but it’s 190kv instead of 170 and wondering if that would work
Running two motors of different KV will usually be fine, with a few caveats.
Make sure that the higher-KV motor won’t exceed the maximum ERPM capability of your ESC with your chosen battery voltage. For the Unity I think that’s at least 80K, but I don’t remember exactly.
Yeah the claim is supposed to be 130k for the unity so even though I’m on 12S it should be ok, I think I’ll just set a much more conservative limit in the unity tool
I would recommend setting a duty cycle limit rather than an ERPM limit, because if you exceed the ERPM limit (by going down a hill for example), you suddenly lose all brakes until you get back under the limit. Very dangerous for something with no other braking system like an esk8.
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Thanks I’ll have a look at that. To be fair I’m a pretty cautious rider so I’m unlikely to go near any big hills and certainly not at speed, but is the idea to work out a duty cycle that sort of averages out to around the ERPM limit without enforcing a shutdown if ERPM is exceeded? Given that PWM duty cycle acts like pulses between zero and a much higher output, I would have thought that this would still cause damage to the FETs by exceeding the ERPM even though it’s not sustained or the “average” is lower. Need to do some more reading I think
Basically in this case, duty cycle can be thought of as a percentage of the no-load speed. So if the maximum no-load speed geared to the wheels is 30MPH, and you want to limit things to 20, then just set a maximum duty cycle of 66.7%.
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Anyone know a good adhesive for silicone? i.e. adhering/bonding the silicone on an LED strip to anodized aluminum
3M VHB tape slid right off
Neutral cure silicone didn’t even try to bond
Most adhesives specifically do not work on silicone and/or rubber