Could you post the Motor Settings > General > Advanced tab?
I think 12 amps is safe, but Brian should verify this. Realistically most cells should be able to output 3 amps. This will lack torque but less than 18mph on flat, it should be fine
“battery current max” can probably be 20A and “battery current min” can probably be -15A
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What firmware version is this?
FW: 5.1 HW: 60
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Changed to 20/-15 (both sides)
I have 2 6354 140kv FLIPSKY BH motors, but right now I am still using the stock ones because they are faster and more powerful than I need them to be, and they still work. Motor swap is for another time.
Stock motors from what exactly?
You can turn down battery max a little if you want to increase longevity but it’s really a guessing game on that battery, there is very little information given.
As long as you’re okay with the worst-case scenario, then everything should be fine.
When the battery goes, I upgrade. This is the H2c/SYL-08 mtb. The motors are 63xx (74 I think) - they claim some outrageous number like 1650w but near as I can tell from others who have played with them they are about 190kv
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turn it up to 25A
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Thanks for your help everyone.
thats a bms discharge battery, u probably don’t want that
iirc, the batt comes with SYL08 looks like lg hg2 cells, but never saw those lg logo on them
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I have an idea, and I am looking for people to tell me why it is stupid.
We all know that latching switches are bad for esk8, because they are spring loaded so under heavy vibrations the latch can come un-done and your board turns off. But what if we are just using the wrong latching switches?
Obviously I know that antisparks/ESCs that use momentary switches are much better, and those should be used wherever possible. But assume for a second that you have to use a latching switch.
Could we instead use a switch like this, which has a “Normally Closed” pin, so that when the button is not depressed the circuit is completed, and when the button is depressed the circuit is broken. That way, when the esk8 is on the button is in the relaxed state, and there is nothing to vibrate loose! The user experience would still be exactly, the same, just press a button to turn the esk8 on and press it again to turn it off. The only thing that is different is whether the button is latched for “on” or latched for “off.”
Right?
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Seeing as I am actively invoking Cunningham’s law, it seems only proper to tag @MysticalDork (also because I think he will know the answer to this electrical circuitry question).
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Hi all,
I have a couple of questions regarding the setup of my Stormcore 60D vesc using the Vesc-project tool.
Is it best to use windows? I have mac.
I have read that its important to have the correct and updated firmware for my vesc which I understand is achieved using the Vesc-project tool . I have read that updating it wrong using the Vesc-project tool could brick my vesc? What do I need to do in order to make sure this doesn’t happen?
This is my first DIY board and I have never done this before. Any tips would be much appreciated.
This would only happen if something disconnected mid update. To avoid this just use a USB cable that you know works well and does not randomly disconnect. Same goes for a battery for the vesc.
I don’t see what would be different.
Normally just hit update in the firmware. But I think someone with a stormcore knows there’s an app for it.
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Anything could be brick during a firmware update if it gets disconnected. This applies to everything including smart lights, phones, computers and of course a vesc