Rather than getting corresponding connectors for the motor and vesc cables can I just remove the connectors on both devices and solder the wires together? For example the mesh splice technique?
I’d set it up so that the arduino is powered from the Xenith, and that way when the xenith turns off, the arduino turns off, the relay will also turn off, because they’re all getting power from the Xenith.
The relay turning off will cut power to the lights (which are powered from the battery through the relay).
The onboard 5v regulator can do a maximum of 1A IIRC, but some of that goes to running the ESC’s internal systems like the MCU and gate drivers. I would stay under 100mA if possible, because if the 5v rail fails, that kills the whole ESC.
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Yes, don’t even need the mesh splicing as long as your solder joints are good.
Insulate them good though
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Yes, mostly.
The higher the charge current, the harder it is on the cell, and the more heat will be generated, which is also not good for the cells.
This fact is nonlinear, e.g. charging at double the current isn’t twice as hard on the cell (It’s more than twice as hard), and it extends in both directions.
This means that the “ideal” charge current for the best possible cell life is not charging them at all. Any amount of charging shortens their lifespan, and the faster you charge, the worse it is.
The “recommended” charging current is not any better for the cell than a lower number. It’s just the point where the engineers calculated you’d get acceptable cell life probably.
So yes, if you expect the advertised datasheet lifespan out of the cells, you can charge that fast. If you charge slower than that, your cells will last even longer though.
Yeah, LFP has a comparatively very low internal resistance, and can charge and discharge very fast.
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If I decide to use 12s, and 190kv on a vesc4, can I just reduce the duty cycle max to like 80 to prevent the ERPM from passing 60k? This is a much better approach then limiting ERPM right?
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Sorry I was confusing stuff. What you cannot do is charge each one as a 6S while still connected in series, unless you have two power supplies which do not share the same ground.
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Either way, you are limiting ERPM. I would just get a vesc 6 type esc and not worry about passing the Erpm limit, especially with those motors.
Yes. But likely not necessary
You may want to activate constant balancing for a few days. Right now it says right there “balancing closed” and it’s drawing 0W. By default it balances when charging from 4.0 to full battery and then stops
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Hey there.
I found a deal on an Austrian website for a defect esk8board for 150€. The owner states that it just worked for two hours than it shutdown. The esk8’s brand is imacwheel. Searched for it in the forum but there was no single result for it. For those of you who can speak German or wanna see some pictures of it here is the link: Will teilen:
So my question is: Do you think that’s a good deal or a total waste of money?
If you’re planning to change the esc and see if the battery isn’t at fault, then sure. That’s what I did with a pre-built board that didn’t work.
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The question i ask is why he doesn’t send it back and get it replaced if he bought it just a week ago and was quite happy with it.
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Yeah. Either the support is bad or he simply doesn’t care about money. OR the board is totally broken because of his unappropriate usage and he just wants to squeeze the last bit of money out of it
I mean setting a max duty cycle shouldn’t require an erpm limit but im just thinking about doing it to be safe.
@Paul77, I started to model my evo, a while ago, I’ll finish it this weekend. I’m gonna cheat and put it in the mill and probe it the whole length of the board
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As others said about those cells. There’s people who charge even faster and also overcharge to see what kind of damage they can cause snd very little if any noticed and they’re very resilient. Rcgroups a guy does some tests.
Nice choice for so many reasons.
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I am waiting on adjustable baseplates and an assorted bag of riptide goodies, if I change angles to adjust ride id like to know what +/- angle set up is best. which stock might be as they are there for a reason but I like messing with stuff.
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If you have the deck in hand, you can use this app to measure the angles:
Just make sure you place the deck on a level surface to test it. You can also use that app to measure the angle of your trucks after any baseplate adjustments.
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